Great Sea phones in unremarkable Korean-Chinese -- Chinese food with nods to Korean tongues -- and one remarkable thing: Hot and Saucy Chicken Wings. Frenched, battered, deep-fried, and slathered with a sweet, dark, oily chile sauce, this version of a classic Chinese snack is the reason for the perpetual train of pilgrims that stomp through the drab dining room to collect Styrofoam boxes heavy with lollipop poultry. If you really need something else, there are a handful of interesting departures from the codified wok glop. Cha chiang mian -- a deep bowl of noodles in a thick black bean sauce -- distinguishes itself. So does chow ma mian, a seafood-and-pork noodle soup with a rich, fishy red broth. But Great Sea knows its strength. They even sell jars of the wings' sauce at the register -- its terrific on salmon. They could easily cut out the overhead and make a fortune selling their miraculous drumettes from a lunch cart outside some sports bar.
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