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Grass-fed burgers on house-made buns, plus house-made pies, ice cream, jams, and jellies.

Our Review

Yee haw. Another burger joint, this one from De Cero owners Chris and Angela Hepler-Lee, who scuttled their high-end Indian joint Veerasway, decking it out in flea market's worth of kountry kitsch and slapping up a white-barn facade on a classic Randolph Street stone-and-brick building. The earnestly local menu, with items named for cutesy-poo rural caricatures (you know, "Grandpa" and "Miss May"), is a distraction, offering what turn out to be dry unsalted chips and onion dip; greasy, soggy batter-fried vegetables; tooth-rottingly sweet fennel baked beans with too much anise; a wet lump of wild rice on a bun for the vegetarians; and a "seasonal salad" with fresh-off-the-semitrailer ingredients like avocado, red grapes, and grape tomatoes. The important things: well-made, loosely packed grass-fed beef without any of the dryness common to the species, buttered house-made poppy-sesame buns, and blanched double-fried wedge-cut potatoes. Stick with those and you'll do all right. House-churned ice cream and pies of the month sure sound fine, but seem in short supply. Communal tables discourage square dancing.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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