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New Japanese-Korean restaurant from the people formerly behind Andersonville's Hama Matsu. One specialty of the house is rolls custom-made to the tastes of the customer.

Our Review

It takes confidence to open a sushi joint just two doors down from the established Hachi's Kitchen in a potentially cursed space that once housed the short-lived Rustik and then Rustico Grill. But Kyung Sun Bang, formerly of Andersonville's Hama Matsu, has some things going for her, namely her simple home-style Korean and Japanese dishes, such as greasy-good chapchae (sweet potato noodles stir-fried with beef, carrot, and onion), tonkatsu (crispy deep-fried pork cutlet), or agedashi tofu (lightly batter-fried soybean curd bathing in a dashi soy broth). But I'll be the first to admit that some days you just need to forgo minimalist traditionalism and power down a monkey brain--a panko-breaded deep-fried whole avocado stuffed with tuna and crabmeat). Gosu is also extremely hospitable--your server might refer to the chef as "mom" as he plies you with extras such as three varieties of house-made panchan (kimchi, fish cakes, and pickled cucumbers), sesame-dressed iceberg salads, miso soup, perhaps a couple bottles of the lemon-lime soda Ramune for the kids, and a refreshing finish of the cool drink sujeonggwa, made with persimmon, cinnamon, and ginger. That spirit of generosity also applies to the portions, though perhaps to the detriment of some of Bang's fanciful makimono, such the "burning scallop," a spicy tuna roll piled high with glistening shellfish and tobiko, or the "origami," a preparation of many fish wrapped in soybean paper and bathed in a sweet ginger sauce.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
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