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Quail with spiced beluga lentils

Quail with spiced beluga lentils

Jeffrey Marini

Former Les Nomades chef Chris Nugent strikes out on his own with this BYO restaurant offering eight- and 12-course seasonal prix fixe menus.

Our Review

Longtime Les Nomades chef Chris Nugent has striked out on his own at this BYO just on the border of Lincoln Square. But unlike those of his erstwhile fine-dining colleagues who've downscaled as they downsized, he's offering multicourse prix fixe meals of precisely plated, flawlessly executed compositions. A winter menu began with a spoonful of roasted golden beet in a drip of citrus olive oil, balancing a mini gob of goat cheese and a single green leaf, a relatively simple amuse bouche to set the stage for a succession of painterly studies—foams, powders, purees, reductions, plant life, and tiny flowers dancing around their centerpieces but rarely getting down with them. It's all delicious, but such ancillary garnishes rarely harmonize with the whole. The meal follows a seamlessly logical progression, and it marries highly professional and informed service with our current agricultural mores—the produce is dutifully locally sourced, and the menu is printed on seed paper (take it home and plant it and it'll sprout something). But it is culinary compartmentalizing at its most frustrating, too fastidious for its own good. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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