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On the border of Evanston, this jerk joint also serves Jamaican standards and an array of fresh fruit and vegetable drinks.

Our Review

Good? Damn straight. This budget-chic storefront across from the drab gray facade of an Evanston Police Department outpost serves moist, succulent jerk chicken and pork with some of the best smoke flavor you can get on the north side—no wonder the counterman wasn't giving up any trade secrets. There are all the Jamaican standards here—brown stew chicken, curry goat, oxtail, cow foot, and red snapper, served en escabeche or steamed—and I just might hike up again to try the fish-tea or cow-skin soup ("very chewy," said the counterman, comfortable disclosing that much). Juices and smoothies on offer include the Iron Man (carrots, beets, and ginger), the Lady Love (cucumber juice and ginger), and, inevitably, the One Love (carrot, apple, and ginger). There are also beer, wine, and rum-based tropical cocktails.

Kate Schmidt

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

3.9 out of 5

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