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click to enlarge Gaslight's lunch for one

Gaslight's lunch for one

Mike Sula

Coffee brewed your way and a limited but appealing menu.

Our Review

Gaslight's beans are distributed to a number of outlets around town, but they're brewed your way in-house—drip, pour-over, siphon, or espresso. Nobody blinks if your MO involves sugar or cream, and mostly it's very good stuff. There's a minimal but appealing food menu too: a handful of pastries (including single croissants from La Boulangerie); a Continental breakfast option (for one or two, $6, $7) featuring a soft-boiled duck egg, fruit, a strip of lardo, and a baguette; and a similar lunch option (for one or two, $8, $15), a sampler plate with house-made pickled vegetables, a rotating selection of cheeses from Marion Street Cheese Market, and charcuterie from Indianapolis's great Smoking Goose. On one visit I had a sharp Italian Pecorino along with a wedge of the Alpine-style raw cow's milk Rupert, from Vermont's Bardwell Farms. This came with small stack of slices of Smoking Goose's stagberry salame, a fermented elk sausage studded with mead-soaked blueberries, so tangy and gamey it scented the whole room with intoxicating funk. Maybe the best thing about Gaslight is that's there's been no attempt to cram bodies into the bright, airy space: there's a single row of two-tops, a giant picnic bench, and large horseshoe coffee bar within the brick and florid papered walls adorned with taxidermied woodland creatures.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, Discover

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