Since chef Alan Yuen returned to his family's 20-plus-year-old establishment seven years ago from a kitchen-hopping tour of Paris and Hong Kong, he's bred its neighborhood Chinese style with the booze-happy French school. Anything sweet-and-sour here is a good bet, as the sauce is made with a fruit-juice reduction instead of cane or honey sugars. The hot-and-sour soup's especially good, made with seafood and julienned mushrooms rather than pork, and even dishes as simple as spicy Szechuan long beans (green beans with red pepper and garlic) stand out. The cheesy, nifty Buddhist-temple facade's been kept, while the dining room's had a needed degriming and natty red-and-black paint job. A pot of oolong comes with dinner, but there's also beer now, and you can bring your wine and spirits.
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