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CLOSED. West African restaurant specializing in Guinean cuisine.

Our Review

Before ordering at Le Conakry, it’s best to ask the chef what’s available; the "temporary menu"--multinational and ambitious--is merely a rough guide to what’s actually going on in the kitchen. On most nights offerings are limited, and less common preparations--such as dishes with atieke, an Ivory Coast couscous and manioc paste--require advance notice. Though the restaurant boasts a "natural and organic" menu, a Goya vegetable can sitting on the cutting board suggested the probable provenance of some produce, but no matter: this chow would surely qualify as West African comfort food: conservatively seasoned, dense with stomach-satisfying carbs, it’s soft and goes down easy. Chicken and fish yassa, Senegalese favorites, come drizzled with griddled onion and olives. A traditional Guinean stew of cassava leaves is funked up with fermented shrimp paste, probably the most veggie-heavy dish on the menu. The folks here are genial and welcoming, mitigating the somewhat spartan surroundings of the restaurant, which seems to function as a kind of West African emigre community center, with Internet access provided. This food travels well; consider take-out.

David Hammond

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Price: $$

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