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Reasonably priced authentic Cantonese cuisine plus unusual house specialties.

Our Review

The lobster tank's gone but the icicle-like chandeliers and waiters in starched shirts and bow ties remain at this Cantonese stalwart. Not in the mood to navigate a 300-item menu, I asked for a sampling of the restaurant's best. Out came tofu and seafood soup chock-full of shrimp, squid, scallops, tofu, straw mushrooms, and a healthy dose of fresh ginger. Mongolian beef, walnut shrimp, sizzling sea bass, and pea pod leaves with fried soft tofu followed. (I wasn't dining alone.) Mongolian beef was faultless yet rocked nobody's world. The walnut shrimp did. A sweet tooth's dream, the shrimp are fried and coated in sweet mayonnaise; the walnuts are candied and glorious. Given its richness, it's a dish best enjoyed in small doses, unless you're under 12 and gunning for a bellyache. When the sea bass, also fried, came to the table I was instructed to ladle it with a sauce of soy and garlic to create its namesake sizzle. No sizzle. But that didn't detract from the meltingly tender fish. Too many stems did detract from the pea pod leaves. And the tofu tasted of oil. A number of tables hold a lazy Susan and accommodate 12. Evergreen has the cleanest men's room in Chinatown.

Peter Tyksinski

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Price: $$
Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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