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Contemporary Asian restaurant from Thai Dang, a veteran of L2O under Laurent Gras.

Our Review

At this cavernous but sleek and darkly comfortable addition to Randolph Row, L20 vet Thai Dang is offering a vaguely Asian menu that's more Vietnamese than anything else. Here are spring rolls, sausage-stuffed squid, and kho, the homey braised caramel dishes that are the hallmark of Vietnamese soul food. Add to that list a generous pile of papaya tossed with chewy bits of beef jerky—a typical Vietnamese salad—and you might begin to wonder why Dang bothers to describe his food as "progressive." That's not to say there are no surprises: a fat scallop simmering in sake arrives on the half shell, set atop a mound of flaming salt. A mosaic of seared tuna dice, raw side up/cooked side up, dressed with shaved pink radishes and yuzu-chile sauce looks like something straight off Laurent Gras's menu at the old L2O. But the kitchen gets downright primal with a stack of long, crispy ribs coated in a sticky glaze of tamarind and hoisin—it's easily the most satisfying and enjoyable thing on the menu. The biggest surprises may be the appearance of durian, world's stinkiest fruit, on the dessert list, and just what a traditional cook Dang turns out to be. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

Bar Details

The cocktail list at this sleek and darkly comfortable addition to Randolph Row skews far too one-dimensionally treacly even for Vietnamese cuisine, which cliche dictates should be accompanied by syrupy sweetness (when what it really demands is whiskey or beer). But there's a white-dominated wine list—with over two pages of Rieslings—that's far more suited to chef Thai Dang's generally subdued "neo-Asian" flavors. —Mike Sula

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