Don't go to Eleven City Diner expecting the fast, brusque treatment you usually find in a traditional deli. Dinner service on a recent visit was slow (though not interminable) and polite to the point of approval seeking: a staffer made a special trip to the table to find out if the egg cream he'd made was up to par. (Yes.) Despite its unnerving lack of attitude, Eleven City offers other traditional trappings--there's a pie case up front, and matzo ball soup, knishes, and tuna melts on the menu. But as an all-day-breakfast fan, I chose the huge and excellent challah French toast topped with strawberries, bananas, and coconut--"I'm going to have to get in on that action" was a fellow diner's response. They don't skimp on desserts here: the root beer float comes in a glass three fists high, and I struck ice cream as soon as I stuck my spoon in the foam. On the other side of the restaurant is a deli counter stocked with sandwich fixings--corned beef, egg salad--for carryout customers. Maybe they're ruder over there.
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