Dragon Court is a Cantonese restaurant decorated with aquarium tanks of lobster, crab, and the astonishingly ugly monkfish. It's on the farther-than-you'd-like-to-walk side of Wentworth, out on the edge of the expressway, which may explain why it gets too little praise for its excellent menu. The locals know about it, though: on a harsh, snowy night, the dining room was full. Aided by an attentive staff of abashed young Chinese men, we feasted on garlic-dusted crispy chicken, pork with bok choy and taro root, and a perfectly fried fish and tofu stew. We concluded with a truly terrific lamb and watercress hot pot spiced with star anise. Dragon Court has a running seafood fire sale: two specialty entrees nets you a whole steamed fish, three a crab.
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