Dempseys Irish-American Grill, located in the Midway Marriott, is a veritable shrine to former heavyweight champ Jack Dempsey. As if the murals, photographs, and life-size sculpture of a boxing cow werent enough to drive home the theme, the seating area is elevated and roped off like a boxing ring. Despite the restaurants name, the menu is no more Irish than, say, Bennigans. The list is as varied as it is disorienting. Some Irish standards come under the guise of other cuisines; for example, an Irish pasty is billed as ham and cheese en croute." Other dishes are Irished up a bit--the nachos for example, are a plateful of homemade potato chips lavished with bacon, Irish cheddar, and onion sour cream. Classics like corned beef take a seat in the way back in order to make room for the slightly ridiculous Portuguese clams and chorizo, seared grouper with tomato fumet, and pork tortas. Some things tasted institutional (chicken soup with dumplings) while others were delicious and clearly house made (the corned beef). Theres a buffet available at breakfast and lunch, but steam-table french fries? Sorry, no thanks.
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