At DeColores the taquitos de papa (tiny tacos filled with mashed potato then fried golden) are deliciously inventive—draped with sugar beets and chayote in a tomato citrus sauce, they’re crunchy and colorful. Other appetizers, unfortunately, weren’t nearly as enjoyable: the posole was vapid and the ceviche that we’d hoped would be dominated by the taste of fresh fish was instead overwhelmed by orange marinade. Still, I’m not damning the place with faint praise when I say the chips were very good; too often the bowl of fried tortillas is a throwaway item that doesn’t get enough attention, but here they make an effort to make them fresh and crisp. Featuring some decent beef, the tampiquena was probably the best of the entrees. The staff and servers are very simpatico, and they seem to draw a sizable local crowd. DeColores is billed as a galeria, and the walls are lined with Mexican-themed artwork.
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