Located at a well-traveled intersection with a large parking lot and brightly lit neon, DD&S is a lure for the casual traveler as well as for neighborhood regulars. Sadly, the food's not so hot. Spareribs, despite their inherent porky appeal, held not a hint of smoke flavor and were alternately tough and tender depending on the section of the slab. Hot links had a nice kick from red pepper but were too salty and somewhat oily; rib tips, with a slightly crisp exterior, fared better but had pockets of unrendered fat. The crisp, greaseless chicken wings are tasty and, along with pizza puffs, popular with regulars. Fries and slaw are unremarkable, as is DD&S's Kickapoo BBQ sauce--though with its vinegary bite it at least avoids the sticky sweetness too often characteristic of Chicago barbecue. Overall, it's fortunate DD&S has charms beyond the BBQ--an interesting display of photos of noted African-Americans and a friendly, smiling counter lady manning the cash register behind inch-thick bulletproof glass.