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Taylor Street enoteca from Scott Harris (Francesa's).

Our Review

Our meals were enjoyable if unevenly paced at Scott Harris's bustling, rustic Taylor Street wine bar. But several dishes from the menu belied the current conventional wisdom that small plates are good for sharing. Sardine ripiene al forno—two small fillets sandwiching braised fennel, pine nuts, and olives—collapsed into bits when we cut it. Two strips of crisped pork belly yielded eight bites total, and there wasn't enough peach mostarda to perk up the surprisingly bland meat. A vasi—mini mason jar—of smooth, dense ricotta was ample, but we would have liked more than the Lilliputian square of honeycomb on the side. Easier-to-share options included a vasi of light chicken liver paté topped with dried cherry-shallot compote, wide ribbons of fresh hearts of palm set off by lemon and chile oil, and puddinglike mascarpone polenta topped with a piquant Berkshire pork cheek ragu of the day. The rooftop seating is first come, first served.

Anne Spiselman

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