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Michael Kornick and David Morton's foray into barbecue. And bacon.

Our Review

Inside the walls of Little Italy's erstwhile red-sauce joint Gennaro's is this regionally nonspecific barbecue restaurant from veteran chef Michael Kornick (MK) and steak house scion David Morton, who have so far collaborated on a craft-burger joint (DMK Burger Bar), a simulated fish shack (Fish Bar), and a speakeasy (Ada St.). Here are rib tips, Texas brisket, Kansas City burnt ends, and Saint Louis spare ribs, all of which, to their credit, arrive at the table unsauced. But no amount of the stuff could disguise the textural weakness of the ribs, as mushy as if they'd been steamed or boiled. "Texas" brisket is tender enough, but there's not even a hint of smokiness to it. Less complicated meats are better: rib tips are appealingly gnarly and oozing with hot fat, a sagey pork sausage and respectably fiery hot link explode with juices, and chicken is lightly rubbed, lightly smoked, and similarly juicy. Oddly, there's no pulled pork, though there are bacon-centric small bites and a number of sides, including sweet collard greens, garlicky sauteed kale, cheesy grits, and vinegary coleslaw. It's a telling sign at a place purporting to do barbecue when the sides are better than the main attraction. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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