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First local location of an Asian megachain offering fried chicken and pizza with Korean twists.

Our Review

CLOSED. In South Korea, curious interpretations of American fast food are extremely popular. Fried chicken "hofs" serving beer and whole chickens, cut up and drenched in thick sweet-spicy sauce, seem to be on every street corner, and Italian restaurants, hilariously but less successfully to my taste, dress pizzas with bulgogi, root vegetables, and sweet mayonnaise. Pizza & Chicken Love Letter, the first local incursion of Korean megachain Cheogajip, offers both (but no beer) from its location deep in a suburban strip mall. Small hacked chickens are fried to order in a neutral batter--similar to Brown's, a friend observed--and served plain or drenched in sweet or sweet-hot sticky sauce with a powerful cinnamon note. Though Korean-Chinese restaurants like Great Sea and V.I.P. do a much better job with this style, the chain also offers rotisserie and popcorn chicken. Pizza crusts are thick and biscuitty, and in the case of the Royal Potato pizza, stuffed with sweet potato, topped with pepperoni and potato chunks, and drizzled with mayo. Eat-in orders are preceded by diced daikon in supersweet vinegar and repulsive shredded raw cabbage smothered with Thousand Island dressing and canned corn. Order a combo for the full Lost in Translation novelty and brace for a hallucinogenic MSG rush.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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