Listed at the very bottom of the changing menu at this minimalist breakfast-and-lunch spot was an item to make anyone thank Providence for good grain and meat: oxtail polenta. The warm corn mush with tender braised meat was surprisingly light and buoyant, sweetened by garlic confit and garnished with refreshing baby fennel. It's a very good sign of what these guys from underground dining posse Thurk are capable of. They work with local ingredients, which in late winter means dishes like a smoked beet salad, celery root soup with apples and brown butter, a couple of tartines, a quiche with roasted Vidalia onions, and house-made sausage with poached eggs and mustard. They're big on pastry too—croissants, financiers, custardy canele—and you don't want to leave without a big, crusty, tangy boule of country bread in tow.
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