When, early one weekend evening, we arrived at this theatrical offering from Jerry Kleiner, we were led across the nearly empty dining room to a small, cold catacomb near the rear service bar. "Are you familiar with mojitos?" our server asked. "Are you familiar with horchata?" Pardon me, but we're familiar with a number of things, overweening waiters among them. We started with the ceviche tasting, small portions of five marinated fish options; our favorites were the scallop, flavored with coconut curry and basil oil, and the crab, glazed in habanero jelly and served in a tomato, mango, and horseradish sauce. The main courses we tried were homey: rum-glazed pork shoulder served with smoky Puerto Rican rice and beans, a ginormous slab of filet mignon served with Peruvian potatoes and a roasted garlic mojo, an extracreamy four-cheese mac 'n' cheese offered as a side dish, but hearty enough to serve as an entree. By the time we finished, three hours after arriving, the main dining room was packed to the rafters, festive Latin music blaring above the din.
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