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The Logan Square location of the Mexican coffee shop and cafe has expanded and now becomes the more upscale D'Noche in the evenings.

Our Review

Serving breakfast and lunch by day as Cafe Con Leche, this Logan Square spot on a burgeoning stretch of Milwaukee Avenue morphs into D’Noche beginning at 5 PM, dimming the lights, turning up the swank, and dishing out a surprisingly impressive and sophisticated menu of Mexican and Latin fare. We started off with an order of well-presented and delicious black bean tamales accompanied by the obligatory side of guacamole and chips. My buddy described the carne en pipian rojo (skirt steak in chile de arbol sauce) with chipotle mashed potatoes as well-charred but still nicely tender; my cheese and poblano rajas enchiladas were better than expected for a run-of-the-mill vegetarian choice, with a welcome spicy kick. Although neither of us is a fan of bread pudding, we opted for the house-made capirotada dessert, swimming decadently in a sea of syrup and capped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. It ended the dinner perfectly. Now if they’d only turn off the flat-screen TVs during dinner, I think I’d be willing to categorize D’Noche as fine dining for the Logan Square hipster collective (of which I’m a certified member).

Kevin Warwick

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