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Chef-butcher Allen Sternweiler (Allen's, Duchamp) offers build-your-own burgers, beignets, and a case of his handiwork.

Our Review

Given that burgers and ampersands are two of the most overplayed restaurant trends in recent times, it's doubly sad that the name of Alan Sternweiler's build-your-own-burger joint so closely mimics a certain well-known Noble Square butcher shop. But Sternweiler, last seen consulting at Duchamp, manages to do quite a lot in this tight Lincoln Park space, offering a staggering 11 different patties from prime beef to elk to vegan and salmon, mixed to order with a choice of 13 spice blends (coconut curry, Italian herb, onion soup mix) and a slew of complimentary and extra toppings (Benton's bacon, foie gras, black truffle mayo). The potential combinations can be dumbfounding, but careful strategizing produces a perfectly good sandwich; the ghost-pepper blend, for instance, lends a by- no-means-painful heat to the grass-fed prime burger, and the curried lentil vegan burger is surprisingly moist, almost fluffy, in contrast to the enjoyably gnarly cube steak with Greek lemon seasoning. On the other hand, pork and turkey burgers are—perhaps not surprisingly—dry, and the promise of freshly fried beignets is extinguished by a dry, dull execution. Spuds, however, are fried light and crisp, maintaining the potatoes' airy integrity. Breakfast sandwiches, salads, and Cafe du Monde coffee round things out, with fresh-ground and cured meats available for carryout.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
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