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Taco shack and whiskey bar with multiple vegetarian options. Cash only.

Our Review

The divine beet taco—charred-yet-juicy-on-the-inside root bathed in a citrus reduction and nestled inside a handmade corn tortilla—is just one of six vegetarian options on the 13-taco menu at Bullhead Cantina, a dim, pared-down spot in Humboldt Park just up the street from Flying Saucer. I’m not even vegetarian, but I like that this is a place that gets creative with veggie tacos: not a single one of them includes beans. One does, however, pair grilled sweet potato with pickled cabbage, roasted corn, and an avocado-lime sauce, which sounded delicious, but still wasn’t as good as the beet. On the carnivorous side, the pastor taco—with its hunks of cumin-spiked pork and cubes of pineapple—was the standout, superior to the carnitas slow-cooked in banana leaves (kind of bland) and the tamarind-glazed fish (fine but nothing remarkable). There's a daily special: PBR tallboy, shot of the day, and your choice of taco for $6; on Wednesdays six-packs of Old Style, Schlitz, or PBR are $12.

Mara Shalhoup

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  • Bullhead Cantina’s cool beets

    Bullhead Cantina’s cool beets

    I’m pretty sure I found a beet that will resurrect the root vegetable’s place in the hierarchy of hipness. It’s inside a taco.
    • Apr 26, 2012

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