The most unfortunate name, Browntrout (see urbandictionary.com), in fact commemorates a simply prepared rod-and-reel-caught fish that sustained chef Sean Sanders and his wife while they honeymooned in remote New Zealand. Sanders, a Bin 36 vet, doesn't have that particular species on his menu, but his signature golden trout is done "New Zealand style," a crispy crushed-walnut armor protecting the luscious fillet, pan-seared in brown butter and served with fresh peas and mint. It's an incredibly satisfying piece of fish, and emblematic of nearly everything I've sampled on his simple and easily navigable menu, which you can expect to change with some frequency. But Sanders's preference for simplicity doesn't rule out unorthodox presentations: the menu features a "pasta of the moment," which on one visit was a light, feathery pappardelle rolled upon itself with meatballs—more like a messy dumpling than a plate of noodles, but very tasty. Silky sliced Amish chicken thigh with smoked pistachio mousse on polenta was among the most memorable poultry dishes I've tried recently, and grilled lamb sirloin sat atop an unforgettable celery root risotto. We're at a point in time where these notions, like claims about the locality and seasonality of one's menu, are so common among restaurants that a place like Browntrout runs the risk of getting lost in the stream. But it would be a shame to let that happen.
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa