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Barbecued pulled pork, brisket, or chicken served with a choice of five sauces and sides.

Our Review

With the recent glut of ersatz barbecue joints trying to be all things to all people, I was prepared to find that Blackwood BBQ couldn't come close to smoking anything worthwhile. I'm happy to be proved wrong. Brisket, for one thing, was astonishingly good—bordered by a thick, savory bark and powerfully smoky, with strands of meat held together by a matrix of melting fat and collagen. Owner John Naylor and his crew are using the common offset Southern Pride smoker and producing just three things—pulled pork, pulled chicken, and that brisket—serving them on platters (which include one side) and in sandwiches and er . . . salads at an extremely friendly $6.49 to $7.49. Thankfully, they're not muddying the waters with ribs, rib tips, manufactured burnt ends, etc etc. But they turn this on its head with five regional hot sauces: Memphis style, Kansas City, vinegar-based North Carolina style, a sweet mustard-based South Carolina, and a peppery, gritty Chicago style unlike any I've come across before. Standard sides include corn bread, mayo-and-vinegar-based slaw, mildly sweet beans loaded with shredded pork and green peppers, and a superlative mac 'n' cheese with fat, creamy elbows covered in a crusty Parmesan armor. All this together means it's likely you'll hit a long, cramped line during the lunch rush in the tiny space, which happens to provide the happy consequence of an intensely concentrated atmosphere of smoky meat to help ease the wait.

Mike Sula

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover

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