Today the principles seems obvious if not ubiquitous, but when Blackbird opened in 1997, few restaurants were preparing seasonal farm-to-table menus. But all these years later, and now under chef de cuisine David Posey, dinner at Blackbird still seems fresh. Though the menu changes often, it has some consistent features—like interesting produce paired with meats beyond pig, cow, chicken. And then some dishes don't change at all. The saffron-scented seafood soup has been on the menu since day one and is just right, especially when it's brimming with juicy Blue Hill Bay mussels. Another classic, the endive salad with pancetta and poached egg served in a crispy potato nest, is still crushed tableside—in a crowded dining room, the effect approaches parody when several nests are being smashed to bits at once. A second constant is the four-star service, which is at the same time attentive and invisible. Hallmarks of high-end dining punctuate the meal, beginning with an amuse bouche and a good two hours later ending with petits fours; informed wine consultations and a proper bread service add to the overall experience. What with Posey's work at Alinea, it seems inevitable that new technology would find its way into the kitchen, and sure enough, futuristic touches like a pile of sauerkraut powder give an exciting edge to the otherwise safe choice of a seared scallop. Read the full review >>
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