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Martial Noguier's Gold Coast French restaurant.

Our Review

At the Gold Coast's Bistronomic, from former One SixtyBlue/Cafe des Architectes toque Martial Noguier, the atmosphere is so dusky the mirrored walls look like windows onto the abyss. It's a somnambulant vibe even when it's packed and the chef is working the room like he's running for office—which is often. The menu, worlds away from the haute cuisine Noguier was creating in previous positions, seems a bit snoozy itself, a collection of charcuterie and cheese, Amish chicken breast, seared scallops, whitefish, tuna tartare, and meat and potatoes. But the clever few that stand out immediately—beginning with a creamy, sweet cauliflower veloute enriched with shavings of Wisconsin's venerated Gruyere-style Pleasant Ridge Reserve—signal that Noguier isn't phoning it in. Same goes for the grilled cheese du jour—in my case a surprisingly light, cool blue on brioche with hazelnuts and apple. "Martial's mother's" paté is the textural opposite of his chicken-liver mousse—superfatty, fluffy, rich, and spreadable like whipped cream. Light gnocchi with butternut squash sauce, tossed with wonderful rock shrimp, shows dexterity next to more heavily creamed fish-and-mussel soup with tarragon and saffron. Even leaden-sounding dishes like a finely textured braised lamb shoulder in a deep dish of saffroned couscous are almost buoyant. Noguier's latest spot ought to serve its neighborhood well. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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