Bistronomic
840 N. Wabash St.Chicago, IL 60611
Gold Coast/Mag Mile/Streeterville
312-944-8400
bistronomic.net
Hours: Dinner: seven days
Our Review
At the Gold Coast's Bistronomic, from former One SixtyBlue/Cafe des Architectes toque Martial Noguier, the atmosphere is so dusky the mirrored walls look like windows onto the abyss. It's a somnambulant vibe even when it's packed and the chef is working the room like he's running for office—which is often. The menu, worlds away from the haute cuisine Noguier was creating in previous positions, seems a bit snoozy itself, a collection of charcuterie and cheese, Amish chicken breast, seared scallops, whitefish, tuna tartare, and meat and potatoes. But the clever few that stand out immediately—beginning with a creamy, sweet cauliflower veloute enriched with shavings of Wisconsin's venerated Gruyere-style Pleasant Ridge Reserve—signal that Noguier isn't phoning it in. Same goes for the grilled cheese du jour—in my case a surprisingly light, cool blue on brioche with hazelnuts and apple. "Martial's mother's" pâté is the textural opposite of his chicken-liver mousse—superfatty, fluffy, rich, and spreadable like whipped cream. Light gnocchi with butternut squash sauce, tossed with wonderful rock shrimp, shows dexterity next to more heavily creamed fish-and-mussel soup with tarragon and saffron. Even leaden-sounding dishes like a finely textured braised lamb shoulder in a deep dish of saffroned couscous are almost buoyant. Not all goes so smoothly. An oddly unseasoned nicoise salad, too-tough duck breast, and a peppery fillet with an almost cured quality suggest that perhaps the chef shouldn't spend so much time in the dining room. But overall Noguier's new spot ought to serve its neighborhood well. Read the full review >>
Price: $$$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, AmEx, Discover
Past Events
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Bistronomic
- Thu., Feb. 14 2013
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Bistronomic
- Tue., Feb. 14 2012
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Bistronomic
- Sat., Dec. 31 2011
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