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Birria from a master.

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Juan Zaragoza learned to make birria from a master: Miguel Segura, who runs the venerable Birrieria Miguel at the market in Zaragoza's native town of La Barca, Jalisco. Birria is a regional Jalisciense variant of the more widespread barbacoa, meat traditionally slow-cooked in a pit. Zaragoza goes through five to seven young goats in a weekend, seasoning the meat with kosher salt before gently cooking it in a sealed steamer on a stovetop for up to six hours. After steaming, he lightly applies an ancho-based mole to the meat and transfers it to an oven. Handmade tortillas, freshly pressed and heated on the grill until slightly puffed, are an exquisite vehicle for the goat, lightly drizzled with consomme and garnished with salsa, onions, cilantro, and lime. Read the full story>>

Mike Sula

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