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Popular Hermosa birrieria where shafts of al pastor pork are hand assembled.

Our Review

Come by after midnight and you’ll see the butchers in back, building layered mounds of seasoned pork for tacos al pastor at Birria Huentitan, a taqueria that engineers their meat cones on site. This is a humble palace of meat; a vegetarian would do well to avoid even walking past the front window, where a shimmering shaft of al pastor pork is usually turning and browning. Strangely, even if they’ve just cut meat from spit, they tend to serve you from a hot tray where they deposit freshly cut meat; if you know a little Spanish, I’d recommend asking for the just-cut stuff. Though the pork is nicely crisped, the seasoning is relatively mild, and the taco is not helped by cardboardy tortillas, though for less than two bucks, what do you expect? The sign outside displays the telltale goat head, and the birria here is quite good; you can have it in a taco, but when you order it in soup you receive richly red and deeply piquant broth that enhances the flavor and moistens the generous hunks of cabrito. In addition to birria, this very popular place serves pozole and menudo most hours of the day and night.

David Hammond

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Price: $

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