A pho joint in Koreatown seemed an odd thing to me, but juding from the crowds at lunchtime it's a sound business plan. The pho here is geared to the Korean customer base, which apparently prefers a less oily broth than the typical Vietnamese pho; the result is simmered for ten hours with beef bones. It seems to lack some of the heady spices that typify the pho on Argyle Street--I wasnt feeling much star anise--but the broth is clean and fortifying. Among the 12 varieties of soup a full four are seafood based--and include some really pretty green mussels. Much less play is given to organy bits, though you can still get your tripe and tendon flotsam. Considering that Koreans usually dont go more than a day without some sort of soup, Im betting Big Pho has staying power in Albany Park.
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