An offshoot of the well-regarded Chicago Heights Bergstein's, this Hyde Park spot nevertheless fails to make much of a case for the continued existence of the American delicatessen. Take something as elemental as the Reuben. A respectable-size stack of Sy Ginsburg corned beef is piled between two cottony slices of rye bread that can barely stand up to the toaster, let alone being thoroughly soaked in Thousand Island dressing. It's a sloppy excuse for a sandwich that disintegrates on contact. You'd be better off with something a little less ambitious, like the Bensonhurst: pastrami and corned beef united by some tenacious melted Swiss. Either way, neither justifies the price tag. The other usual deli suspects are present, like house-made deli salads, whitefish and lox by the pound, a handful of tossed green salads, and latkes, the last served in bite-size form, because why should you be treated like an adult? The kreplach, on the other hand, are rather special. Just one of these plump, meaty specimens dominated a cup of chicken soup that was infused with a supernatural level of umami. It's too good for the matzoh balls, though, which typify a heretofore unknown category. Not a floater. Not a sinker. Kind of a stinker. Wet Jewish Wonder Bread.
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