A veteran of Heat, Schwa, and New York's Momofuku Ko, Jonathan Ory is now making some of the most gorgeous classical pastry in town. At his Roscoe Village coffeehouse, Bad Wolf Coffee, he also mans the counter, where, he says, he talks to everybody who comes in, at least a little. This is emphatically not the place to take your laptop to and get some work done. It is the place to go for a Paris-Brest (a dessert shaped like a bicycle wheel, with hazelnut cream filling), a raspberry Jalousie ("basically a Pop Tart"), a Basque cake, canelé (weekends only), or a flaky, gooey kouign-amann, the item that's gotten the most acclaim so far. "I don't want to be known for just one thing," Ory says—but he seems persuaded that it doesn't hurt to have a hit on the menu, either.
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