Food & Drink

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

A look at the new Off Color brewery

Posted by on 06.19.13 at 04:35 PM

A tank named George
Off Color Brewing, the new project from John Laffler (formerly of Goose Island) and Dave Bleitner (formerly of Two Brothers), has been in the works (more or less) since 2009, and there have been several opportunities to taste its collaboration beers over the past few months. But Monday was the official release of their two year-round beers, and they celebrated by opening up their brewery to the public and pouring not only those beers, but a couple collaboration brews as well.

To be more precise, they didn't exactly pour the beers. They put some kegs out, along with a bunch of plastic cups, and let people fend for themselves. Which seemed like a reasonable way to do things. The kegs were labeled, for the most part, though the fact that one keg of the Three Floyds/Off Color collaboration beer was labeled Thundersnow and the other Tonnerre Niege (French for "thundersnow") may have caused a little confusion. And one label was just a drawing of a mouse with the words "Off Color"—but a look at the top of the keg revealed that it was Beer Geek Mus, a collaboration with Mikkeller.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

The funniest, weirdest, and angriest Best of Chicago reader votes

Posted by on 06.19.13 at 02:45 PM

Barack Obama, circa 08.
When it comes to our annual Best of Chicago issue, we at the Reader strive to be as democratic as possible. That's why we give you, the readers of the Reader, free rein to voice your opinions on everything from Best Alderman to Best Bike Shop, by way of a wide-open write-in ballot. This might not be the most convenient of methods—there's quite a bit of tedious tallying required—but damn if it isn't the most entertaining. This year's results were, per usual, quite revealing. Here's a quick rundown of some notable responses.

Unsurprisingly, many of you took the opportunity to get a bit cheeky with your selections. Take, for example, the person who voted Goodwill the Best Boutique for Men. Kudos to the person who considers the Best View of the City to be My apartment . . . Ladies? And a shout-out to the dollar-menu-naire who voted McDonald's the Best Fancy Restaurant—I'm sure you keep those Snack Wraps on lock. (By the way, you need to link up with whoever wrote in I'm too poor to eat at fancy restaurants—give 'em a taste of the good life.) My personal favorite vote for Best Gay Bar: Wrigley Field.

Continue reading »

Tags: , ,

Monday, June 17, 2013

Suddenly, it's summer: More alfresco drinking and dining

Posted by on 06.17.13 at 04:12 PM

The view from below at Cafe des Architectes
  • Ted Cox
  • The view from below at Cafe des Architectes
Back in May, when we pulled together alfresco picks for our Summer Guide, we weren't expecting another month of gray skies, flash floods, and temperatures chilly enough to make you curse the weather guesser. But look—quick! The sky is blue and the sun is shining (or at least it was). Here, in honor of the occasion, are some more places to sit back and enjoy the breeze.

Ada St. Seasonal small plates from chef Zoe Schor and an expanded—and excellent—seasonal cocktail menu; limited reservations are accepted from 5:30 to 6:30 PM Monday through Saturday.

Bang Bang Pie Shop The Smoke & Whiskey Chocolate Pie proprietress Megan Miller devised as a Father's Day tribute to her dad—featuring a "bourbon smoked spicy black pepper & smoke bomb salted meringue," whiskey caramel, and bacon brittle—will be available for the next couple of weeks, along with rotating selections currently including key lime and cherry lattice pies.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , ,

DryHop may not need a good review, but they're getting one

Posted by on 06.17.13 at 02:00 PM

Big things happening under this sign
  • Big things happening under this sign
When DryHop brewpub threw a preopening party on Saturday, June 8, it sold 300 growler fills and 300 tasting flights to an estimated 400 guests in just two hours. When I visited on Saturday, June 15, two days after DryHop formally opened, I showed up around 3 PM, hoping to squeak in between the lunch and dinner crowds—but there was no "between." The 3,000-square-foot space at 3155 N. Broadway, which allegedly holds 70, was standing room only, and a line for growlers stretched out the door. I stayed about four hours, and not a minute went by that at least three people weren't waiting for a growler fill. Around 5 PM, Hopleaf co-owner Michael Roper dropped by to see what the fuss was about, then drank his way through half the beer menu.

In other words, Atlas Brewing Company has hardly sated the neighborhood's appetite for brewpubs. (It opened last summer less than a mile away, on Lincoln near Diversey.) DryHop was so slammed during my visit that the kitchen ran out of food and had to stop serving for two hours in order to recover for dinner. Head brewer Brant Dubovick told me that if the current frenzy of demand for DryHop's beers keeps up, it'll make it tough for him to brew lagers or high-alcohol styles—they tie up his equipment for too long. Because DryHop's landlord also owns the storefront immediately south, the brewpub is already considering expanding into that space. It's almost certainly going to staff up posthaste, at least at the bar.

All this is to say that DryHop probably doesn't need a good review from me to take off like gangbusters. But it's gonna get one anyway, because Dubovick is doing some great work.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

How to eat radishes

Posted by on 06.17.13 at 12:37 PM

French breakfast radishes
Radishes are some of the first things to pop out of the ground every spring, and they grow so fast and plentifully it's not uncommon for me to feel besieged by them. If I limited myself to eating the peppery little bastards raw I'd be able to breathe fire. Fortunately, these French breakfast radishes take to braising really well, becoming slightly squishy and pinkish, like newborn baby mice. They still maintain some structure though, which allows them to retain their inherent juiciness.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , ,

Friday, June 14, 2013

Charlie Trotter sued for selling allegedly bunco burgundy and other food news bites

Posted by on 06.14.13 at 10:52 AM

1975 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (not counterfeit)
  • wikipedia commons
  • 1975 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (not counterfeit)
• Charlie Trotter is getting sued for selling an allegedly counterfeit $46,200 magnum of 1945 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, according to Reuters.

• Over at From Belly to Bacon, Mark makes lamb ham, the third in a series of alterna-hams.

• A Cook County judge squashed the city's motion to dismiss a lawsuit challenging the food truck ordinance, reports Crain's.

• The Lincoln Park Binny's is growing by 17,000 square feet, according to DNAinfo.

• Eating the World checks out sfincione in Palermo.

Tags: , , , , , ,

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Somm: When a niche becomes a trap

Posted by on 06.13.13 at 05:00 PM

Lauren Bacall, with curtain designs, in The Cobweb
  • Lauren Bacall, with curtain designs, in The Cobweb
I'm convinced that a great movie can be made on any subject, no matter how arcane, provided that its makers find something of greater significance in the material or else employ cinematic form to transform that subject into something interesting. One of Vincente Minnelli's best films, The Cobweb (1955), centers on a debate over who gets to design the curtains of a posh sanitarium's common room. In the movie's intricate structure, the debate becomes intertwined with larger psychiatric issues—namely, the benefits of regimented treatment versus a more exploratory approach. The patients who want to design the curtains (and the doctors who encourage them to do so) see the project as an outlet for self-expression, and Minnelli presents their case sympathetically. The curtains come to reflect the his long-running theme of the redemptive power of art.

For a very different example, consider the sequence in Frederick Wiseman's documentary Meat (1975) where beef-industry salesmen in Colorado make phone calls to potential clients. It's a brilliant piece of social portraiture, showing men who dress and talk like cowboys even when employed in bureaucratic work. Wiseman, a great listener, is keen to their jargon and cadences—he illustrates how every office place develops its own particular music.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Wrestling with the monster burgers at Squared Circle

Posted by on 06.12.13 at 04:19 PM

Big Vic, Squared Circle

There comes a time in every professional athlete's life when she begins to realize she can only take so many moonsaults and Mongolian chops, and she must start looking at the future. For Lisa Marie Varon, who wrestles professionally under the name "Tara" and has been known to torment vanquished opponents with a living tarantula, that means parlaying a still popular career into a Jake Lamotta-style front-of-the-house gig at Squared Circle, the wrestling-themed pizza and burger bar she owns with her husband. Actually, the wrestling aspect is pretty toned down—just some framed photos and memorabilia, live wrestling action on the flat screens, and the charismatic Varon herself, working the snug room, posing for photos, kissing babies, and chatting up the fan club.

The menu, dominated by 11 specialty pizzas and eight Juicy Lucys, is characterized by a level of bombast and excess that peaks on a deep-dish pie cooked in pans greased with duck fat, and a burger stuffed with peanut butter and topped with bananas, bacon, and ricotta. One needs to train for something like that, so I started with the fundamentals. Both the traditional and thin crusts are decent enough, but nothing earth shattering, and not too terribly different from each other. The former is a bit doughier, but they both could use a hotter oven to crisp things up, particularly on overloaded pies like the proprietress's namesake Lisa Marie, with port-caramelized onions, blue cheese, prosciutto, apples, and arugula, or—God help you—the "Kentucky Bourbon," with mashed potatoes, barbecue sauce, and pulled pork.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , ,

Best of the worst: Flavored whiskeys

Posted by on 06.12.13 at 03:43 PM

Terrible and not-so-terrible: Peach Mist and Fire Eater
  • Julia Thiel
  • Terrible and not-so-terrible: Peach Mist and Fire Eater
This isn't exactly a roundup of flavored whiskeys, mostly because the idea of flavored whiskey sounds terrible to me so I'm not exactly inclined to go out and spend money on them. (I did taste some Evan Williams honey whiskey a couple years ago and remember it being unbearably sweet.) But I was recently sent samples of a couple new releases—peach-flavored Canadian Mist and cinnamon-flavored Early Times—and figured I might as well taste them.

Canadian Mist has actually released three flavors—peach, cinnamon, and maple—but I only tried the peach variety. It's Canadian Mist whiskey blended with peach liqueur, bottled at 70 proof, and it smells absolutely terrible. While I was still trying to muster the courage to try it, my friend tasted hers and declared it "the worst thing ever." I held my breath, took a small sip, and found it—not that bad. Slightly sweet, but not too unpleasant. But then I tried it without holding my breath, and the syrupy, fake-peach flavor came through more strongly, reminiscent of bottom-shelf peach schnapps. To mellow out the sweetness I tried adding sparkling water, then some lemon, but somehow that just made it worse. Bitters might have helped but I didn't have any handy—and I doubt they could have disguised the slight chemical flavor that became more obvious with every sip.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , ,

At last! The cronut (or "croughnut") comes to Chicago!

Posted by on 06.12.13 at 09:27 AM

The elusive cronut
  • dominiqueansel.com
  • The elusive cronut
It's been only a month since Dominque Ansel started selling cronuts. Only a month since he started making a mere 200 per day, since New Yorkers started lining up outside Ansel's SoHo bakery at the butt-crack of dawn in order to get a shot at purchasing their allotment of three precious pastries apiece, since the cronut became the talk of the pastry world beyond New York, since disappointed would-be cronut buyers started flipping off Ansel's baristas, since several apparently-thriving cronut delivery services opened for business on Craigslist, operating, in some cases, at an 800 percent markup. And it's been only a week since the cronut backlash began and the first copycats—called "doissants"—appeared in DC and Indianapolis, and a day since a baker in Minneapolis claimed he's been making his own doughnut-croissant hybrid for years, only nobody knew or gave a shit since he was in Minnesota (though the last part of that statement went unsaid because Minnesotans have to uphold their reputation for niceness).

So naturally, it's time for Chicago to get its own version of the cronut. Except it won't be called the cronut since Ansel has already trademarked the name. It will instead be called the "croughnut." And it won't be in Chicago. It will be in Elmhurst, at Gür Sweets Bakery.

Continue reading »

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

Agenda Teaser

Music
Nicholas Payton XXX Jazz Showcase
June 20
Lit & Lectures
Dan Savage Lincoln Hall
June 20

Tabbed Event Search

Search

The Bleader Archive

Recent Comments

Popular Stories

Follow Us

Sign up for a newsletter »