The state smoking ban may have put an end to the hookahs, but other traditional touches remain: pillow seating, folk art, ceiling drapes that create a tent effect, Kavaklidere wine and Efes beer, and, yes, belly dancing (Friday through Sunday). The food is traditional too: zucchini pancakes, phyllo pies, and Turkish "ravioli" (manti) are hearty Turkish versions of the standards. Entrees like a a mixed-grill platter of tender lamb, beef, and chicken come with plenty of dill yogurt for dipping. Baklava, oozing honey, was the best Ive had outside of Jerusalem. Reservations recommended on weekends.
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