The "master" at Tori Shin, located in a small strip mall near the intersection of South Busse and Dempster, is Toshio "Tony" Kaneko. He's been cooking there for 28 years; the restaurant's been open for business since 1976. It's a small space, with a bar and open kitchen opposite a handful of tables set under framed autographs from ballplayers like Kosuke Fukodome, the former Cub now with the White Sox. There's an English menu with a collection of appetizers, noodles, and sushi and sashimi specials, but the really interesting stuff is on a dry-erase board, written entirely in Japanese. Unless you can get Kaneko's full attention or read it yourself it can be tough to suss out what's what. But persistence—or simply pointing at what your neighbors are eating—pays off. You might get slices of ankimo, cold monkfish liver bathed in ponzu, or a hearty bowl of chicken liver and mushrooms stewed in sweet, slightly spicy miso. Kaneko has served up crystalline sweet potato noodles tossed with briny cod roe (harusame mentaiko) and fried smelts (shisyamo), their tiny bellies pregnant with eggs, along with skewers of grilled "black pig" pork belly (butabara kushiyaki) and, in the winter, plump oysters set atop fresh shiso leaves. On Friday nights the tables are usually filled with salarymen drinking, chatting, and snacking—a scene you won't find anyplace in the city. —Mike Sula