At former Publican chef de cuisine Brian Huston's vigorously market-driven restaurant in downtown Evanston you might start with a dish of Castelvetrano olives and pickled peppers, or mixed nuts, or toast mounted with, say, lightly smoked sable, house-made ricotta, bright fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, and sweet Tropea onions. Huston is relying on superior products, simply prepared. It's an MO that rarely fails. Tart plums and sticks of crunchy kohlrabi nicely counter the richness and sweetness of sweetbreads. Tender grilled squid takes on the heady spices of the curried green cauliflower and new potatoes that accompany it. Even something as straightforward as a grilled skirt steak comes alive with red Fresno chiles, tart purslane, grilled cantaloupe, and crumbled blue cheese. The strictly vegetable dishes are the real winners. Sweetly glazed grilled Japanese eggplant is sprinkled with crushed cashews and lemony culantro leaves, and a salad of roasted beets, spiced crushed pistachio, and grapefruit is set atop cool avocado puree, hidden in a pile of pea shoots. The crispy potatoes—blanched, then beaten into irregular shapes before frying—manifest varying degrees of crispy and soft textures, with crunchy bits settling to the bottom of the bowl. Dessert seems like an afterthought: a fruit pie, a fruit salad, a sorbet, a gelato, and an unremarkable chocolate cake that might make you wish you'd spent that digestive real estate on another savory dish.