Does aji de gallina mean anything to you? How about papas a la Huancaina? Ever since a fire destroyed Rosa de Lima, Logan Square has lacked a casual, cozy Peruvian restaurant where you can inexpensively discover these staples. Until now: the owners of 4 Suyos are passionate about the food and culture and are eager to share information and make suggestions. Our first plate was the expertly prepared papas a la Huancaina—potatoes in a sauce of cheese and native pepper sauce, garnished with olives and a hard-boiled egg. The palta rellena was our favorite dish of the evening, a generous serving of chicken salad stuffed in two halves of an enormous, perfectly ripe avocado (I want to eat this for lunch every day, telling myself, "It’s the good fat!"). Entrees, though good, could use a little tweaking—the meat in the lomo saltado was a tad fatty, and the rice with my aji was the tiniest bit underdone. But such missteps were slight; we'll be returning to this homey, affordable neighborhood BYO.
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