Thursday, September 24, 2009
Food Chain / Food & Drink Thirteen new reviews
Posted by Mike Sula on Thu, Sep 24, 2009 at 12:06 PM
The endless river of restaurant openings rushes on. In addition to featured dissections of Nana, 33 Club, and The Red Canary in Food and Drink, check out the nine brand-new (and one fairly new) reviews in the listings.
I found the greenest combatant in the burger wars, The Bad Apple, no match for a seasoned vet, and finally got a grip on my infatuation with Zebda long enough to praise it with some coherence. Then I discovered that the natives in Edison Park apparently need a frog to signal that Cafe Touche is a decent French bistro, and that the kosher Morgan Harbor Grill is fairly adventurous for Devon Avenue (even if it sort of smells like somebody's grandma inside).
David Hammond exercised restraint at the "condimentarium" at Falafill, and took a a swim in the polyethnic koi pond at the latest Joy Yee.
Julia Thiel was grudgingly won over by the hyperhyped crust at Mod PIzza, and finally, both Castel Gandolfo and Kleo failed to move Kate Schmidt.
Next time: Xoco, Chilam Bilam, Mercadito, Rustico Grill, and a few non-Mexican restaurants too.
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Thanks for the Zebda recommendation! I got some take-out last week and ate at the cafe next door. Felt like I was in the Arab quarter of Marseilles or somewhere over there--all dudes with long beards, sipping espressos, hushedly speaking Arabic and watching soccer. We got enough food for about 5 people, though there were just two of us, with the lamb brochette (with a bread to die for--m'semene?), pappardelle, "the plate" of various salads, curried chicken salad (with roasted grapes! figs! apricots! a revelation), etc. The portions were gigantic and I was happy to finally find a version of tabouleh with couscous, parsley and mint, instead of all parsley. Yay. Wouldn't have known to go there without the Reader.
--anna
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