Chicago Reader

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

One bite: Co-op Image Hot Sauce

Posted by Mike Sula on Tue, Apr 28, 2009 at 11:07 AM

I can't explain why, but the hot-sauce racket seems particularly attractive to floggers who rely less on balance and unmuddled flavors than lame punnage, puerile sadism, and opportunistic gimmickry (see Crazy Mother Pucker's, Ass Blaster, Sarah Palin Hot for V.P., et al). Maybe that unchecked proliferation of obnoxious (and noxious) sauce is like the punk rock of condiments (or is it black metal?). Sure, lots of people can do it, but their numbers are wildly out of proportion with those that do it well.

Mike Bancroft is the Ian MacKaye of hot sauce. For the past five years the founder of the youth arts education center Co-op Image has quietly bottled three varieties made from chiles grown in the group's community garden. "Food is a vehicle for sauce, as cheesy as that sounds," he says. "I care way less about what's underneath the sauce." An avid cook and gardener, Bancroft developed his initial formula with a combination of seven toasted chiles and a chocolate-walnut mole tweaked with tahini. The resulting potion is a complex, brick-red alchemy of deep smokiness and moderate heat and sweetness, tempered by a slight citrus tang (from lime zest). He also makes a thinner, hotter, carrot-based habanero sauce amped with the black seeds of the peron chili, and a thick roasted jalapeño variety that rates lowest among the three on the Scoville scale. They're created in small batches for freshness, and packaged in recycled bottles labeled with the help of Bancroft's home laser printer.

The group first began selling its sauces at the Humboldt Park farmers' market, and as demand grew started supplying restaurants--Janik's Cafe, Treat, Flying Saucer, and Madison's L'Etoile currently. Between that and online sales together with other assorted venues such as the Lotus Keep Gallery, Co-Op sells enough to pay the rent on its Humboldt Park arts center and to help fund the teen-produced CAN-TV Chi-Town Chefs cooking show. 

After all this time, I came across Co-op's original formula for the first time at Birchwood Kitchen last week, and the bottle I snagged is nearly gone.

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I bought some of this at a benefit at Empty Bottle; it's delicious! Mucca Pazza and Coltrane Motion played that night - Coltrane Motion is actually playing this Saturday at Double Door with Office, Loyal Divide, Kyle Andrews, The Seedy Seeds and DJ Brad Owen. If you're interested, more show details @ http://musicperdiem.blogspot.com

Posted by Tracy on April 28, 2009 at 11:41 AM | Report this comment
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please do not cheapen the appeal of black metal by comparing it to hot sauce!

Posted by mark on April 28, 2009 at 12:47 PM | Report this comment
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This sauce is the best in the midwest. I picked it up from a guy wearing vintage nikes and a guayabera shirt. To find out more about vintage nikes and pimp shirts get yourself some Co-op hot sauce and avoid the shameless self promotion along the way.

Posted by Cat on April 28, 2009 at 9:23 PM | Report this comment
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This hotsauce is the best! I had no idea that it was from a local garden and funds a community art school. For some reason this information seems to make it taste better.

Posted by kpcb on May 13, 2009 at 2:00 AM | Report this comment

I have a case of the original at home, so that I will not run out. It is really the best hotsauce that I have ever had. On top of that, the money goes to a great cause. I encourage everyone to go to coopimage.net and check out the good work that they are doing.

Posted by mberkoff on August 19, 2009 at 2:49 PM | Report this comment
Posted by mike bancroft on November 20, 2009 at 11:09 AM | Report this comment

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