One Sip

Friday, January 18, 2013

Kishr: Make it a double

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.18.13 at 01:12 PM

I'm a bit late to the qishr party, but it's been in the back of my mind ever since a lunch at Albany Park's Yemen Restaurant* long ago, when a nephew of the owner told my group they'd soon be serving the hot beverage infused from dried coffee cherry husks, cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger (aka kishr, kishir, Yemeni coffee tea). As of yesterday, they still don't offer it, I'm guessing because it's nearly impossible to import the dried fruit that surrounds the coffee bean. That is, unless you're Rowida Assalimy, who launched her own blend, Kishr, about year and half ago, selling it in teabags in stores like Standard Market, the Goddess & Grocer, Floriole, even the East Bank Club. Assalimy, who grew up drinking the stuff, markets it for its healthful benefits—it's high in antioxidants, low in caffeine, boosts immunity, etc.

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Wednesday, December 12, 2012

The cider renaissance: Virtue Cider launches Lapinette

Posted by Julia Thiel on 12.12.12 at 03:00 PM

This may look wet, but its dry
OK, maybe it's not exactly a renaissance. Lapinette is the second offering from Virtue, Chicago's first local cider-only outfit. Virtue's English-style cider, called RedStreak, hit local taps in April; the Mitten, aged in 12-year Heaven Hill bourbon barrels, is expected around New Year's. Former Goose Island brewmaster Greg Hall, the founder of the operation, has studied cider in England and France, and while he brews with local apples, he's clearly influenced by drier European styles.

Lapinette, whose coming-out party took place last night at Lula Cafe, is a Norman-style cider fermented with saison yeast and aged in French oak wine barrels. Slightly cloudy (in the style of the rough French ciders made hundreds of years ago, it's unfiltered), it's bone-dry, lacking both the tartness and sweetness of RedStreak—which itself is much less sweet than most American ciders. "Fruity" might seem like a glaringly obvious way to describe a cider, but where RedStreak is very fruity (in a lush, juicy kind of way), Lapinette is not. It's woody and tannic, so it dries out your mouth a bit, and while it does have fruit flavors—pear and bitter grapefruit in addition to the apple—they're restrained. And, though I realize this description may not sound particularly positive, the cider is really good, perfect for pairing with food. It may, however, be a shock to palates that are accustomed to Woodchuck. It's on tap at bars around Chicago, but won't be released in bottles for a year or so (RedStreak is also available only on tap).

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Wednesday, November 28, 2012

One Sip: Perennial Artisan Ales

Posted by Julia Thiel on 11.28.12 at 04:00 PM

Beers and from whence they came (theoretically)
St. Louis, my hometown and the home of Perennial Artisan Ales, is a Budweiser town through and through—even now that Anheuser-Busch is owned by InBev. (Coincidentally, I just started reading Bitter Brew: The Rise and Fall of Anheuser-Busch and America's Kings of Beer, which is fascinating so far.) True, new microbreweries are springing up there almost as fast as they are in Chicago, and Schlafly has been making craft beer for more than 20 years. It's not hard to find good beer; it's just that the bar in Terminal B of Lambert Airport is called the Budweiser Stadium Club. And if you drive down to the Perennial brewpub, all of the corner bars you pass on the way sport neon signs that say "Budweiser," "Bud Lite," or "Anheuser-Busch"—never "Miller" or "Fat Tire." There's at least one that, in addition to the neon sign, has a faded Budweiser ad painted on one wall.

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Wednesday, November 21, 2012

One Sip: Lagunitas Brown Shugga

Posted by Julia Thiel on 11.21.12 at 04:00 PM

Brown Shugga, a seasonal brew from Lagunitas, was created in 1997 as the result of an attempt to rescue a failed batch of Olde GnarlyWine Ale by adding "boatloads of brown sugar"—or so the story goes, anyway. It was a hit and they've made it every year since, until last year. Lagunitas, then in the process of building a new brew house, realized that they didn't have the facilities to brew both their regular beers and Brown Shugga (which requires more time to make than the others). In its place they released an excellent IPA that they named Lagunitas Sucks Holiday Ale, with an apology for not brewing Brown Shugga printed on every bottle: "There is no joy in our hearts and the best we can hope for is a quick and merciful end. F*@& us. This totally blows. Whatever. We freaking munch moldy donkey butt and we just want it all to be over."

Lagunitas Sucks was so popular that the brewery now plans to brew it year-round—and more importantly, Brown Shugga is back this year. It's less sweet than you'd expect, smooth and biscuity-tasting with a subtle brown sugar flavor and piney hops that kick in with a bitterness that intensifies for two or three seconds before starting to fade. When the beer is cold the hop bitterness is the dominant flavor, but it mellows out as it warms up, letting the malts come through more.

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Wednesday, November 7, 2012

One Sip: beers recently released in Chicago

Posted by Julia Thiel on 11.07.12 at 04:00 PM

Henry Weinhards beers
  • Henry Weinhard's beers
A note about the headline: a more accurate description would be "beers released in the last couple months, which might count as recent in the minds of certain procrastinators, but possibly not to everyone." But my editor tends to disapprove of headlines that are longer than a David Foster Wallace footnote, so we'll just go with "recent."

I tried Omission, a gluten-free beer from Widmer Brothers in Oregon, a couple weeks ago at their release party at Fatpour Tap Works. I'd done a little research (i.e., googling) in advance, and most of what I found praised the brew for actually tasting like beer. Not being gluten intolerant myself, I haven't tried other gluten-free beers, but I can confirm that the two Omission offerings do, in fact, taste like beer. Not particularly exciting ones—the lager is light and inoffensive; the pale ale is a little hoppier but also fairly mild—but definitely beer that I wouldn't object to drinking if it were handed to me at a party. Omission seems to be one of the only gluten-free beers brewed with barley (if not the only one); the gluten is then removed through a supersecret "proprietary process" until it's well under 20 parts per million. It's $10.99 a six-pack at Binny's, which I'd probably pay happily if I were gluten intolerant—since I'm not, though, I want a little more flavor for that price.

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Wednesday, October 31, 2012

"Mommy, Can I Go Out and Drink Tonight?" at the Local Option

Posted by Julia Thiel on 10.31.12 at 04:00 PM

local_option.JPG
A sanctuary from the general obnoxiousness that is Lincoln Park, the Local Option always has a more than respectable tap lineup, often with a few unusual beers thrown into the mix. Last Friday, as they periodically do, they turned over all of their 31 taps to interesting—sorry, "rare and evil"—brews, this time titled "Mommy, Can I Go Out and Drink Tonight?" in honor of the Misfits (whose music played all evening). I'm not sure exactly how the beers were related to the band, but plenty of them were rare, with offerings from Struise, De Molen, Mikkeller, Haandbryggeriet, and many others, including two beers brewed by the Local Option itself. With the help of several friends, I managed to try close to a dozen of them on Friday—though I only had a sip or two of most so my notes are a little sketchy. The good news, though, is that some of them are still pouring so you can try them yourself. Below, a few notes on what I tasted and a list of what's still available.

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One Sip: North Shore's Silver Lining Liqueur (can you guess what's inside it?)

Posted by Mike Sula on 10.31.12 at 03:02 PM

silverlabelweb.jpg
Every year our friends at Lake Bluff's North Shore Distillery create a single batch limited release, taking one of their standard spirits and infusing it with something wacky. Last year it was a sloe gin style elderberry liqueur. The year before that it was a bottled Corpse Reviver, and before that a cacao bean and poblano infusion. Wild stuff.

This year's release was unleashed last week. Called Silver Lining, it's based on a German krauter liqueur, a disgestif typically made from a blend of herbs and botanicals. They're often bitter, often sweet and syrupy, sometime medicinal. You may be familiar with its Italian cousin, amaro, or with its most infamous expression: Jagermeister.

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Monday, October 29, 2012

A tale of two tepaches

Posted by Mike Sula on 10.29.12 at 04:00 PM

dos tepaches
I must have developed cidrochephalus while drinking all those French apple ciders. I got to thinking how easy it is to develop your own hard cider. Just let some fresh stuff sit in the fridge for a week or so until it gets fizzy. So why not tepache?

In August Friend of the Food Chain Rob Lopata wrote a piece on the Mexican fermented pineapple cider for the Trib, but it didn't occur to me how easy it might be to make my own until Maricel E. Presilla's new cookbook Gran Cocina Latina thudded upon the doorstep. I'll have a bit more to say about this sprawling work next week, but this weekend I played around with her recipe for chicha de piña, which calls for nothing more than pineapple rinds, water, and sugar, a thrifty recipe that makes use of something that would otherwise go to waste. Presilla, who is Cuban, writes that her grandfather always had a jar of the stuff fizzing way in his kitchen, but that you can find fermented pineapple drinks in most tropical countries.

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Wednesday, October 24, 2012

One Sip: put a foot in your mouth with sweet and superfunky Normandy ciders

Posted by Mike Sula on 10.24.12 at 03:32 PM

Etienne Dupont Cidre Bouche
There isn't much apple harvesting going on these days due to the warm spring and subsequent frosts that decimated the buds on the trees all across local apple land. Have you seen the puny fruit on sale at farmers' markets this season? You probably won't have much more opportunity to.

Hopefully things have gone better in the Pays d'Auge region in Normandy, where right about now they're picking apples for cider and the Calvados distilled from it. Otherwise, two years from now we might see even less of it than we do now.

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Wednesday, October 17, 2012

One Sip: DavidsTea

Posted by Julia Thiel on 10.17.12 at 04:00 PM

The Bucktown DavidsTea location
I'm cheating a little for this post; my Wednesday ramblings are supposed to be about booze, and tea is—well, not booze. However, like most nonalcoholic beverages, it can be mixed with booze. Actually, I think tea is underutilized as a cocktail ingredient. Aside from hot toddies, I can't think of many alcoholic drinks I've had that involve tea, which is a shame—it’s a flavorful, inexpensive ingredient that’s easy to come by and keeps well.

So when I started tasting through some tea samples I recently received from DavidsTea (hereafter referred to as DT because the styling of the name annoys me), I immediately began trying to decide what liquors would go best with each. The Montreal-based chain just opened its first store in Chicago (at 1645 N. Damen, with a couple more in the works) and offers a fairly overwhelming assortment of teas. Below, some notes on the teas themselves and possible alcohol pairings for cocktails. I didn't actually try making cocktails with them, so this is all speculation.

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