One Bite

Monday, January 14, 2013

Collared: Hamachi kama from Mitsuwa

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.14.13 at 05:23 PM

Yellowtail collar
This is so simple I almost hesitate to write about it. A fish only has two collars, and if more people started broiling them at home it could drive up the price of this unlovely but delicious and economical cut. Hamachi, yellowtail, or Japanese amberjack, has a particularly meaty collar that should never be discarded. Occasionally they're offered grilled at Arami or Yusho (where it's only trumped by Fish Face), but they're always available at Mitsuwa, where they're currently priced at $10.99 a pound.

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Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Don't overlook the humble caldo de res at Tio Luis

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.09.13 at 01:26 PM

caldo de res, Tio Luis
Ever since the Trib boldly declared the tacos at Brighton Park's Tio Luis the best in town six years ago, the compact but always packed neighborhood restaurant has been known for one thing. Apart from those and the occasional mention of its worthy carne en su jugo, there hasn't been much published intel about the rest of the broad menu of antojitos, platillos, caldos, seafood, and breakfasts.

Unless you methodically worked your way across the menu how would you know what other treasures it held? Friend of the Food Chain Rob Lopata applied Standard Ordering Procedure to suss one out. On a recent visit he noticed the majority of customers were huddled over steaming bowls of beef soup. Caldo de res doesn't get much mention in the broader literature either (in English anyway). Diana Kennedy doesn't bring it up in any of her books, and neither does Bayless. There are plenty of digital recipes but little information on its provenance in the universe of regional Mexican cooking. Maybe that's because it's so elementary—stock, beef, and an assortment of vegetables. What culture (excepting Hindus and Chinese Buddhists) doesn't have a beef soup in its history? What else are you going to do with the tough, bony cuts of beef that won't grill well?

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Monday, December 24, 2012

Braunschweiger ballin'

Posted by Mike Sula on 12.24.12 at 02:00 PM

braunschweiger ballin'
This thing used to horrify me when it appeared every year at Christmas lunch, but over time I've come to love it. I imagine it arose out of the same hoary mind-set as the nut-coated cheese ball. There are a million recipes for it, incorporating nonsense as varied as olives, hot sauce, garlic salt, nuts, green onions, pickle relish, mayo, and ketchup. But as you'll see after the jump, my mom's simple six-ingredient recipe is the best:

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Thursday, November 29, 2012

Snack time: Spicy sriracha peas

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.29.12 at 12:32 PM

sriracha peas
Don't get too excited. I know you're just as insane about Huy Fong Foods' sriracha sauce as the next foodlum. But you know "sriracha" isn't a proprietary term, right? It's the generic name for a thinner, tangier chile-garlic sauce from Thailand, rather than the California-manufactured stuff created by Chinese-Vietnamese immigrant David Tran, aka "rooster sauce" (for the strutting cock pictured on the squeeze bottle*).

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Tuesday, November 27, 2012

One Bite: salsa de molcajete at Masa Azul

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.27.12 at 12:56 PM

Salsa de molcajete
  • Masa Azul/Facebook
  • Salsa de molcajete
Who didn't have high hopes back in August when it was announced that Jonathan Zaragoza had been hired to take over the kitchen at Logan Square's Masa Azul? Up until then it had been a great tequila bar and a middling southwestern restaurant. That's all changed now. Zaragoza, scion of the clan that runs the great Birrieria Zaragoza and a veteran of Sepia, has brought the menu up to par with a lineup of tacos: pork belly, shrimp, mushrooms, a superjuicy Yucatan-style cochinita pibil, and of course the mole-rubbed roasted birria his family is known for. These take top billing on a menu that also includes a handful of quirky small plates and a trio of larger entrees, led by what's emerged as something of signature: a gooey soft-boiled ovum jacketed in panko-crusted chorizo—the Mexican Scotch egg. You'll also find a Caesar salad with cotija cheese fritters, a squash soup with duck confit, a grilled flatiron steak with mashed potatoes dotted with cubes of lime jelly, and a Chihuahua-cheese-stuffed chile relleno with cilantro-lime rice.

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Wednesday, November 21, 2012

One Bite: Northern City's baby potatoes with soy sauce

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.21.12 at 01:00 PM

baby potatoes with soy sauce, Northern City
  • Mike Sula
  • Baby potatoes with soy sauce, Northern City
This week I wrote about Bridgeport's Homestyle Taste, which at the time of its opening in early October was the city's only restaurant specializing the food of China's far northeastern provinces, collectively known as Dongbei. That distinction ended a little over a month later when Northern City opened just a few blocks north on 31st Street.

Normally I don't eat at a restaurant on its first day in business, but the sheer coincidence (or not) of two new Dongbei restaurants opening so close together compelled me to have lunch on day one at Northern City, whose chef, Cheng Hai Wang, used to work at Ed's Potsticker House, Chicago's very first Beijing-ese restaurant. Ed's happens to sit smack in between Homestyle Taste and Northern City, which by the Power of Threes has now established this little corner of Bridgeport as a northern-Chinese restaurant row.

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Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Wild Ophelia beef jerky chocolate bar

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.20.12 at 10:30 AM

Wild Ophelia beef jerky milk chocolate bar
  • Mike Sula
  • Wild Ophelia beef jerky milk chocolate bar
Maybe by now you're used to the idea of the idea of beef and chocolate. If bacon can do it, why not beef?

But it is sort of curious that Vosges Haut-Chocolat's Katrina Markoff chose this particular combo to star in the creation myth of her mass-market chocolate bar line Wild Ophelia, which she launched last spring with a gypsy Stevie Nicks-style mascot that looks quite a bit like Markoff herself. According to the boilerplate, in childhood Ophelia ran a "sweet stand" at garage sales in the summer and hit upon dipping strips of beef jerky in sun-melted chocolate.

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Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Piggy Moo Cluck at Kingsbury Street Cafe

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.14.12 at 02:37 PM

Piggy Moo Cluck
Do you ever find yourself wandering around the Whole Foods on Kingsbury Street like a lost four-year-old searching desperately for your soccer mom? I tend to avoid the place because I always get the feeling someone's going to snatch me and do me like the Lindbergh baby. That's the feeling I had on a recent Saturday afternoon as I was dragged down to this godforsaken nightmare concentration of retail overdevelopment on a hunt for a turkey breast, with the promise of some of the surprisingly good WF barbecue just so I wouldn't spend the trip sulking.

That's also the reason I've avoided the Kingsbury Street Cafe, which opened a little over a year ago right across the street, and which, in a moment of acute panic upon viewing the Whole Foods parking lot, I demanded we detour to. It's a breakfast/lunch-only restaurant from a decades-old family-run wholesale baking operation, whose previous posting was in the staff cafe at Harpo Studios (you'll be required to sign a nondisclosure agreement at the end of this post). After Oprah evacuated, the Dong family moved their HQ here, where once in a while a Volkswagen Touareg vacates a spot on the street and a Lexus RX Hybrid swoops in to claim it.

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Monday, November 12, 2012

Cooking with pasta from Rockford: Valentino's fusilli gigante

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.12.12 at 04:00 PM

Valentino fusilli gigante
This summer I was all set to write a love letter to a new small-batch pasta brand coming out of Rockford called Valentino Pasta. Its namesake, Jeff Valentino, had given me a bag of his creste di gallo, an unusual coxcomb shape, and though it had taken me several weeks to get around to making it, once I did I was floored at how tasty it was. Super chewy, with a ruddy, sauce-bonding texture, it had a nutty, almost sourdough-like flavor I'm not sure I'd ever come across before. I immediately rang up Valentino, but by then it was too late. After just a few short months of production his $7,000 imported pasta maker had broken down, and he'd been unable to find anyone to service it. Production was halted indefinitely and his stock dwindled to nothing.

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Wednesday, October 17, 2012

One Bite: lamb and beef from Covo Gyro Market

Posted by Mike Sula on 10.17.12 at 04:38 PM

the lamb and beef from Covo Gyro Market
  • Mike Sula
  • The lamb and beef from Covo Gyro Market

The gyro is one of the more dubious Greek contributions to western civilization. I'm not talking about the glistening, hand-stacked layers of beef and lamb roasting on vertical spits and shaved onto warm pita—that was actually a Turkish innovation (see doner kebab). Those have been around forever. I'm talking about the greasy, salty, breadcrumb-extended, molded mystery meat cones hawked by thousands of platinum blonde temptresses with something more on their minds than cheap sandwiches.

Although they were popularized by a handful of Greek-owned Chicago companies, the real father of the mass-produced gyro cone was a Jewish entrepreneur from Milwaukee named John Garlic. Yep, it's true.

Since then it's been relatively difficult to find a gyro made from real meat. You could go to a half dozen or so Middle Eastern joints for shawerma—but those are usually beef only. And if you're feeling porky, there's always Mexican (or Polish) al pastor.

But now there's an excellent option in Wicker Park at Covo Gyro Market, from the folks who own the "eco-friendly" minichain Prasino.

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