Food Chain

Friday, February 3, 2012

One Bite: Burmese pickled tea salad

Posted by Mike Sula on Fri, Feb 3, 2012 at 1:24 PM

Junta-backed pickled tea salad
Unlike citizens of the great states of Virginia, Indiana, and California, we in Chicago have no place to eat Burmese food, which is a shame for all sorts of reasons, only one being we have no access to the wonderful tea salad known as laphet thote.

Until now.

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Thursday, February 2, 2012

This week's food and drink events

Posted by Daniel Gerzina on Thu, Feb 2, 2012 at 12:48 PM

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Thursday2
Yes, it’s Groundhog Day, and Jerry's Wicker Park is celebrating by offering wild boar sloppy joes with fig vinegar barbecue sauce and screening Bill Murray’s classic Groundhog Day all day and night. The sandwich will stay on the menu for the following week, but Groundhog Day apparently ends for the movie. 10 AM-2 AM, Jerry’s Wicker Park, 1938 W. Division, 773-235-1006, free.

More events after the jump.

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This week in Food & Drink

Posted by Kate Schmidt on Thu, Feb 2, 2012 at 10:30 AM

Quail with spiced beluga lentils at Goosefoot

Mike Sula reviews Goosefoot, the new BYO fine-dining spot from Les Nomades vet Chris Nugent, where he's currently offering an eight-course tasting menu for $90, with a 12-course option in the works. It's all delicious, he says, from "stomach-priming" first courses like chestnut soup topped with truffle foam to quail on a bed of curried lentils he "could eat a whole bowl of." But ultimately he finds it "too fastidious for its own good," and urges Nugent to let his hair down a la Schwa's Michael Carlson or Phillip Foss of El Ideas, whose similarly ambitious and technically brilliant menus are leavened by informality, music, and free-flowing booze.

In the listings are more restaurants in Lincoln Square, among them Sula's much-beloved Nhu Lan Bakery and Jimmy's Pizza Cafe, where you can follow up your New York-style slice with beignets.

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Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Gene and Georgetti: the movie

Posted by Tony Adler on Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 2:18 PM

My favorite steak house, Gene & Georgetti, turned 70 in 2011, but the platinum jubilee seems to be leaking into 2012. Last Sunday G&G took over the Park West on Armitage for a big party, the centerpiece of which was the premiere of a movie about the restaurant, made by G&G family scion Michelle Durpetti.

There were antipasti and moviehouse candies available before the showing, slider-size sandwiches after (provided—rather sweetly, I thought—by friendly competitor Phil Stefani, who appears in the movie talking about how much he learned from G&G). At the buffet station, a guy carved slices of prosciutto that dropped onto a platter alongside crumbles of good aged cheese. When they weren't offering boxes of pop corn and bags of Swedish Fish or Twizzlers, servers brought drinks from the open bar.

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"Only an asshole doesn't like Brussels sprouts"

Posted by Mike Sula on Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 1:47 PM

black cod with sprouts and tempura clams, Acadia
"The only thing I can think of is that there are a few noisy assholes who don't like them and complain about them publicly, and through these outbursts they have the whole world convinced their opinion matters. They're the climate-change deniers of food."—Steve Albini, mariobatalivoice

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Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Take a Sip: The Obscure Beers of Germany

Posted by Kate Schmidt on Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 4:17 PM

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There are still some openings at tonight's 7:30 PM beer tasting at the Bluebird, where beer buyer Jason Baldacci and his friend and fellow buyer Katie Reed of Bar on Buena will present samples of 13 lesser-known styles. "German beer isn't all just pilsen and hefeweizens," the PR says, then offers an impressive list, which follows after the break. It's $30, which includes snacks; reservations, at info@bluebirdchicago.com, are highly recommended.

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Asado Coffee reopens Saturday

Posted by Mike Sula on Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 2:52 PM

Kevin Ashtari, Asado Coffee

When a restaurant or cafe suddenly closes for "remodeling," that's usually an easily breakable code for "it's all over for everyone but the debt collectors." That was the fear among slaves to Kevin Ashtari's marvelous coffee beans, roasted on the spot in his tiny Lakeview coffee shop Asado, when he abruptly and mysteriously shut down just before the holidays.

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Monday, January 30, 2012

Streetside Cafe closes. Coming soon: Scofflaw

Posted by Mike Sula on Mon, Jan 30, 2012 at 1:03 PM

Danny Duberstein L.A. Kewl Shapiro
  • Dan Segar
  • Danny Duberstein "LA Kewl" Shapiro
More good news on the Logan Square cocktail front. Last night Streetside Cafe closed its doors for a major retooling under new ownership. In late December, Whistler vet Danny Shapiro, along with Kris Nagy (Simone's), Andy Gould, and Mandy Tandy (ex-Boiler Room and Bonny's), purchased the bar from Michael Noone (Francesca's, Simone's, Danny's Tavern) and company. They've been gearing up ever since.

Due to reopen in late February or early March as Scofflaw—named for the term coined in a 1923 contest held by the Boston Herald for flouters of Prohibition law—it will be a gin-focused cocktail bar, with small plates and American craft beers on tap, nothing exceeding $8. Shapiro vows that it will be "unpretentious," with different types of ice, in-house ingredients, and "no unsolicited lectures."

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Friday, January 27, 2012

Qu'est-ce qu'on mange, ce soir? Steak!

Posted by Mike Sula on Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 4:24 PM

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  • Gibson''s

Yesterday the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux came to town and some 100 French vintners and their agents arrived with a particular hankering. The trade group, which represents the most historically esteemed winemaking region in the world takes a spin across the States every year around this time, offering industry buyers and oenophiles a taste of the new vintage (2009 in this case). So, what do these discriminating palates want to eat for dinner when they come to our great city?

“Meat! Big!”—Etienne Priou, Chateau Beaumont

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Take a Sip: Alex Bachman's Three Arrows

Posted by Mike Sula on Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 2:17 PM

Alex Bachman and the Three Arrows
  • Ron Kaplan/LTHForum
  • Alex Bachman and the Three Arrows
In this week's review of Yusho, the new yakitori joint from ex-Trotter's chef Matthias Merges, I couldn't spill enough ink on barkeep Alex Bachman, whose evolving cocktail program promises to fill a void in Logan Square/Avondale when Paul McGee leaves the Whistler next week.

Bachman grew up on the Gold Coast, and landed his first restaurant job as a runner during Merges's tenure at Charlie Trotter's, beginning in 2003. After five years he'd worked his way up to assistant sommelier before he left and spent six month working under Christopher Donovan at the House of Glunz. It was there that he began to immerse himself in the study of artisanal spirits. "There was a lot to learn from," he says. "He has stuff in the inventory going back to 1880."

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