Food & Drink

Friday, January 18, 2013

Eat better with lotus petals and other food news bites

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.18.13 at 03:32 PM

• Leela holds forth on the incredible versatility of the lotus in Thai cuisine at She Simmers.

• A developer with a sadistic definition of "interesting" wants to attract more chains to Lakeview, reports DNAinfo.

• Neil Steinberg pens the obit for his perennial column subject Harry Heftman of Harry's Hot Dogs.

• Chicagoist talks with the owners of Honey Butter Fried Chicken on their quest to find a space.

• The indomitable Mark Smrecek smokes kimchi at From Belly To Bacon.

• Lottie + Doof makes strange-flavor eggplant.

• The Local Beet has the goods on how to apply for a Wisconsin cheesemaking scholarship.

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Kishr: Make it a double

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.18.13 at 01:12 PM

I'm a bit late to the qishr party, but it's been in the back of my mind ever since a lunch at Albany Park's Yemen Restaurant* long ago, when a nephew of the owner told my group they'd soon be serving the hot beverage infused from dried coffee cherry husks, cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger (aka kishr, kishir, Yemeni coffee tea). As of yesterday, they still don't offer it, I'm guessing because it's nearly impossible to import the dried fruit that surrounds the coffee bean. That is, unless you're Rowida Assalimy, who launched her own blend, Kishr, about year and half ago, selling it in teabags in stores like Standard Market, the Goddess & Grocer, Floriole, even the East Bank Club. Assalimy, who grew up drinking the stuff, markets it for its healthful benefits—it's high in antioxidants, low in caffeine, boosts immunity, etc.

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Thursday, January 17, 2013

The mojo's still working at Cafecito

Posted by Kate Schmidt on 01.17.13 at 05:32 PM

Ghantous shooting for the proper pickle-to-cheese ratio

When Mike Sula profiled Philip Ghantous back in 2008, his South Loop Cuban cafe, Cafecito, had made the Reader's list of the year's most notable restaurants, and Sula was still marveling at the first-time owner's achievement. A Lebanese-American actor from Peoria, Ghantous wasn't the likeliest proprietor of a place that nails the correct proportion of mustard, pickle, and Swiss to ham and mojo-marinated pork for a top-flight Cuban sandwich. But his meticulousness helped make his version singular.

"The most important thing to me is you want it be warm on the inside," he told Sula."When it is, that's when all the flavors come together. That's why you want that mojo in there. You don't want to just go off the mustard and the cheese and the juice from the pickle—you want the mojo."

Now Ghantous is bringing his naranja agria mojo (sour orange with lime and lemon juice, cumin, garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper) and the rest of his offerings to a more central Loop location, at 7 N. Wells, right by the Brown Line stop at Washington. Originally shooting for a November opening, he's hoping for "the beginning of February at the very latest," he says. "It's been a big headache for me, even though it's smaller."

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Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Totally good: Vander Mill Totally Roasted Cider

Posted by Julia Thiel on 01.16.13 at 12:37 PM

Champagne glasses work for cider too.
To celebrate a friend's move to a new apartment last week, I opened a bottle of Vander Mill Totally Roasted Cider that I'd picked up at the Beer Temple. I realize that champagne would have been more traditional, but I can't afford real champagne, and cheap sparkling wines tend to all taste more or less the same to me—fine, but nothing to get too excited about. Cider, on the other hand, is something I like a lot as long as it's not too sweet. Besides, this bottle was on the pricey side—$13.99 for a 25-ounce bottle—which in my book makes it officially appropriate for a celebratory drink.

And while it's a little expensive, it's also completely worth it. My friend was wrapped up in conversation when she took a sip, but interrupted herself to look at the bottle, exclaiming, "Whoa, this is really good!" (I had the same reaction, except I didn't say it out loud.)

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Monday, January 14, 2013

Collared: Hamachi kama from Mitsuwa

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.14.13 at 05:23 PM

Yellowtail collar
This is so simple I almost hesitate to write about it. A fish only has two collars, and if more people started broiling them at home it could drive up the price of this unlovely but delicious and economical cut. Hamachi, yellowtail, or Japanese amberjack, has a particularly meaty collar that should never be discarded. Occasionally they're offered grilled at Arami or Yusho (where it's only trumped by Fish Face), but they're always available at Mitsuwa, where they're currently priced at $10.99 a pound.

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On tap: Solemn Oath's Ravaged by Vikings

Posted by Philip Montoro on 01.14.13 at 02:00 PM

Jourdon Gulletts artwork for Ravaged by Vikings
  • Jourdon Gullett's artwork for Ravaged by Vikings
So far my beer reviews have involved me nursing a bottle of something special in my apartment, on account of it's easier that way to take notes (and serviceable pictures). But on Saturday I decided to go to Acre for lunch and see if they had anything on tap I could review—even though that meant I'd be obligated to bring a notepad and my janky old camera into a bar, since I don't own a smartphone, a laptop, or anything in between.

Luckily I found a douple IPA called Ravaged by Vikings, from a newish Naperville brewery called Solemn Oath that distributes its beer exclusively on tap. It's the big brother of Kidnapped by Vikings, one of the first Solemn Oath releases upon its opening in May 2012. Ravaged by Vikings has been around since late fall, assuming that the dates of its online reviews at Beer Advocate can be trusted.

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Friday, January 11, 2013

5 Rabbits fight and other food news bites

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.11.13 at 02:32 PM

5 Rabbits Cerveceria
  • 5 Rabbits Cerveceria
• The founders of 5 Rabbit Cerveceria are suing each other, reports Crain's.

• Friend of the Food Chain Rob Lopata files a report on the thick porridge haleem, a Ramadan staple, for the Trib.

• A researcher satellite-mapped 4,648 vegetable gardens in the city, according to NPR's The Salt.

• The Hot Doug's book is due for release on July 16, says Eater.

The King returns from hiatus with a review of the new Harold's Chicken sports bar on the Clybourn Avenue.

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Flour and . . . something, now known as Bistro Dre

Posted by Julia Thiel on 01.11.13 at 01:02 PM

Flour & Dre
Flour is a hot component of names-that-didn't-become-names these days. First there was Logan Square's Flour and Bones, which became Fat Rice before it even opened. Flour & Water didn't fare as well: it opened in September, then changed its name in October after a San Francisco restaurant of the same name issued a legal notice. The Lakeview restaurant became Bistro Dre in honor of its chef, Andre Christopher, whose resumé includes Japonais, Pops for Champagne, and Little Bucharest Bistro. He's probably best known for his 2009 stint at the the now-closed Grocery Bistro, when much was made first of his being a vegetarian and then of his parents' boycott of the restaurant after the owners allegedly failed to pay him (Christopher's parents are still around, running the front of the house here).

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Look out, Subway—here comes the banh mi

Posted by Kate Schmidt on 01.11.13 at 10:34 AM

The goods at Nhu Lan
It used to be that if you had a hankering for banh mi—baguette-based Franco-Vietnamese subs garnished with daikon, carrot, jalapeño, cilantro, and mayo—you had to head to Argyle Street, where you could find tasty and thrillingly cheap versions in various holes-in-the-wall as well as at the venerable Ba Le Sandwich Shop. When rival purveyor Nhu Lan Bakery opened in Lincoln Square back in 2007, Mike Sula feared a bit for its future, praising it as a worthy challenger, yet questioning its prospects in a location so far removed from the hub in Uptown.

I guess there was nothing to worry about. In recent months a number of banh mi shops have popped up in still more neighborhoods around town, and more are on the way.

Ba Le itself may have started the trend, moving across the street into expanded and brightened new quarters in 2010. Since then it's opened a Chinatown location and, most recently, a downtown spot catering to the Loop lunch crowd (and accordingly more pricey).

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Thursday, January 10, 2013

Painted pork chops at middling Mezcalina

Posted by Sam Worley on 01.10.13 at 08:21 AM

Dont judge a pork chop by its cover
Mezcalina inhabits a neighborhood called something like "Lakeshore East," or "Near Eastside," but it may as well be East Bermuda Triangle—enter the address on Google Maps and you'll be pointed straight at an undifferentiated gray block. I didn't realize till I got there that that block was actually a building. (Actually, you know what? Maybe it's not. I was inside it and I have no idea). Approach from Randolph Street and you'll find yourself wandering through a plaza, getting onto some staircase for lack of anything else to do, descending four floors, and ending up, to your surprise, at Mezcalina. Here it is! Right across the street is an extremely nice-looking park. Who knew that was there?

This process is fun because it's so weird—like wandering through a developer's scale-model mock-up of a planned community. I remained hopeful; I'd recently visited a lovely French restaurant located somewhere else inside the gray block. Would two make a trend? Could this artificial, blandly wealthy cityscape foster an unusually good restaurant scene?

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