Food & Drink

Friday, May 25, 2012

Chicago Craft Beer Week and more in this week's food and drink events

Posted by Alison Marcotte on 05.25.12 at 04:09 PM

The Hungry Brain
  • Matt D
  • The Hungry Brain
Friday25

The third annual Chicago Craft Beer Week began May 17 and ends May 27. Celebrate the tail end in the cozy, hip Hungry Brain, which boasts both a good selection of well-priced craft beers and, tonight, the live talk show You, Me, Them, Everybody. Brandon Wetherbee and Esmeralda Leon host, with guests Red Hot Annie, Stephanie Hasz, and Desert Soap. 7-9 PM, Hungry Brain, 2319 W. Belmont, 773-709-1401, donations accepted.

Maison, a new restaurant from Custom House's Sue Kim-Drohomyrecky and Peter Drohomyrecky, opens tonight. The French-tinged menu comprises seafood, snacks like gougeres and house-marinated olives, charcuterie plates, and a generous list of entrees; the executive chef is Perry Hendrix. 333 E. Benton Pl., 312-241-1540.

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Eat spaghetti with your hands at Den Den

Posted by Mike Sula on 05.25.12 at 01:49 PM

Den Den spread
Eritrean food? Pretty much the same as Ethiopian. So says the Food Chain's east African cuisine correspondent, Harry Kloman. "I've asked Eritreans how the food is different," he writes. "Some say it's spicier, some say it's less spicy. Some say Eritreans use less butter so it's less greasy, others say no, that's not true. In other words: same food, just with different (Tigrinya) names."

Little less spicy, not particularly greasy is the MO at Edgewater's Den Den, the city's only Eritrean restaurant, which replaced Las Islas Marias late last year. That's not to say it isn't worth checking out: at the very least it provides a socially acceptable opportunity to eat spaghetti with your hands.

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Crib's Albert D'Angelo surfaces in Brooklyn and other food & drink news bites

Posted by Mike Sula on 05.25.12 at 07:18 AM

You still havent eaten here yet?
Crib chef Albert D'Angelo has surfaced in Brooklyn.

More food shockers . . .

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Thursday, May 24, 2012

One Bite: fuzzy green almonds

Posted by Mike Sula on 05.24.12 at 01:04 PM

Fresh almonds
This time of year it's not uncommon to see folks standing in the produce sections of certain internationally inclined groceries puzzling over these fuzzy, green ovoids, perhaps wondering if there's a planet of extraterrestrial castrati that sacrificed them for our snacking pleasure. No, these are immature almonds, which in the Middle East are commonly dipped in salt and nibbled whole.

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From farm to fuss: Storefront Company

Posted by Kate Schmidt on 05.24.12 at 09:39 AM

This is farm cuisine?
  • Andrea Bauer
  • Cured salmon and fennel jam on brioche circles—this is "farm cuisine"?
In this week's Food & Drink, Mike Sula reviews Storefront Company, a newish contemporary American restaurant in the Flat Iron Arts Building, where chef Bryan Moscatello has been given free rein under the motto "farm cuisine, modern cooking." What might that amount to? A whole lot of farm-sourced canapes and small plates, for one, from foie gras bombes to "The Whole Hog," a $28 tray of bites like cornflake-crusted fried pork liver paired with a finger of breakfast sausage, pork loin on Japanese eggplant, and a crepe stuffed with shredded rib meat and offal. On the other side of the spectrum are simpler preparations such as sliced beef loin drizzled with marrow reduction and an heirloom carrot salad with fresh ricotta, plus composed cheese plates and a few welcome surprises like parsnip cake with cream cheese ice cream and the Bobby Burns, a Scotch-based cocktail served with shortbread. But while these work as accessories, Sula's take is that Storefront Company still needs to establish a memorable identity of its own.

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Wednesday, May 23, 2012

By the pie: good stuff in central Indiana

Posted by Sam Worley on 05.23.12 at 07:17 AM

Gabriel_Amadeus.jpg
  • Gabriel Amadeus
Last summer, somewhere in the middle of rural Utah, my road trip companion and I stopped into a small corner diner that advertised "homemade pie" among the usual breakfast plates and burgers. There are at least two types of magical thinking I can’t not succumb to when traveling. The first is the illusion that it’s ever a good idea to take Amtrak. The second is that diner pie, that platonic ideal, actually exists in some delicious form.

Amtrak is an unrelenting mess. And the Utah pie incident—I only made it through one bite—was like every other similar experience I'd had until then: gloppy filling, crust out of a box. I’d never had good roadside pie.

Until now.

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Monday, May 21, 2012

Troquet vs. Brasserie by LM

Posted by Mike Sula on 05.21.12 at 04:09 PM

Le declivite Francaise, Troquet
What do you call a French dip sandwich in France? Nothing! Like the Philly cheese steak or the Italian beef, this iconic shaved-meat sandwich served au jus on a baguette is an American invention, probably created at one of two iconic Los Angeles eateries (there's abiding controversy).

That hasn't stopped chef Bradford Phillips of Troquet—the newish "neighborhood French bar" from the folks who brought you LM—from putting one on the menu. As it goes, that's about the only non-Frenchy thing to eat at this Ravenswood corner bar, the home of Wolcott's until owners Stephan and Nicole Outrequin Quaisser took it over in March. That wasn't long before they reopened the restaurant in the Essex Hotel (the ill-fated, erstwhile Tribute) after luring Phillips away from the Pump Room to command both. In scope and ambition, both menus are way scaled back from anything he was doing there, or, for that matter, anything he did at LM when he was the Outrequin Quaissers' opening chef.

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Friday, May 18, 2012

One Bite: makdous at Al Bawadi Grill

Posted by Mike Sula on 05.18.12 at 03:52 PM

makdous at Al Bawadi Grill

Bridgeview's Jordanian-Palestinian Al Bawadi Grill is widely, and rightly, praised for its hardwood lump charcoal-grilled meats, sometimes at the expense of other worthy things on its big menu, namely the makdous, stuffed oil-cured baby eggplants. Traditionally these are put up in the fall pickling season, known as mouneh in Lebanon, and eaten months later. At Al Bawadi they're stuffed with crushed walnuts, red pepper, and garlic and served sectioned on the plate, tangy, spicy, and quite meaty themselves, and an ideal pickly counterpoint to the kebabs.

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The bitter end of Logan Square Kitchen and other food news bites

Posted by Mike Sula on 05.18.12 at 11:33 AM

Logan Square Kitchen

Zina Murray announced Logan Square Kitchen's impending demise with an angry rant against the city's "department of dream killers," and then another, giving no hint of her plans just four days earlier.

More food news bites, good and bad:

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Thursday, May 17, 2012

One Bite: breadfruit

Posted by Mike Sula on 05.17.12 at 04:06 PM

breadfruit
Meet the fruit that brought down Lieutenant William Bligh. This starch bomb was the reason he and his crew aboard the HMS Bounty voyaged to Tahiti in 1787—to collect plants to incubate a cheap food source for slaves in the West Indies. We all know how that worked out, but after Bligh made it back to Great Britain he set sail once again, this time as a captain, and collected a couple thousand plants.

But the guy couldn't catch a break. Upon delivery they were rejected by Jamaican slaves. One taste and you can see why. There's no more aggressively boring fruit than this. Once cooked it has a texture and flavor somewhere between boiled potato and dense white bread.

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