Food & Drink

Thursday, February 9, 2012

The venue formerly known as Pancho's

Posted by Luca Cimarusti on Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 12:59 PM

Township restaurant entrance
  • Township restaurant entrance
Perhaps you noticed something a little different in this week's Reader music listings—perhaps the arrival of a new venue called Township. Turns out Township isn't entirely new; it's the revamped incarnation of Logan Square standby Pancho's.

MP Shows began booking bands at Pancho's, a mostly Cuban restaurant at 2200 N. California, in October 2010, after shows at Ronny's were suddenly shut down. A couple of months ago, MP honcho Brian Peterson and former Treat owner Tamiz Ciccone bought the place, and have since overhauled the menu, beer list, and aesthetic.

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This week's food and drink events

Posted by Daniel Gerzina on Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 10:30 AM

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Friday10
At Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar tonight artist and wine buff Thomas Arvid is unveiling three new paintings to go along with a wine dinner featuring California whites and reds and dishes like ahi tuna skewers and petite fillet au poivre. Reservations required. 6:30 PM, Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, 25 E. Ohio, 312-329-9463, $150 per person.

More events after the jump.

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This week in Food & Drink

Posted by Kate Schmidt on Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 10:03 AM

Deer Isle shrimp, cauliflower, cuttlefish noodles, chorizo, marcona almonds, and spoon bread
  • Jen Moran
  • Deer Isle shrimp, cauliflower, cuttlefish noodles, chorizo, marcona almonds, and spoon bread
Mike Sula reviews Acadia, on the near south side, where Courtright's vet Ryan McCaskey is offering fine dining in which foams, emulsions, powders, and garnishes manage to coalesce and harmonize, adding synergy to dishes rather than seeming like manifestations of technique for its own sake (as he found at Goosefoot last week). McCaskey's aided and abetted by bartender Michael Simon, whose cocktails like the Cognac Dreamsicle—champagne, vermouth, and orange liqueur—and the Amnesiac, made with absinthe ice cubes, may just keep you from the wine list.

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Wednesday, February 8, 2012

The Asparamancer

Posted by Mike Sula on Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 5:07 PM

This was shot last month. Take it with a grain of salt. Everybody knows you don't consult an oracle that uses out of season produce. Video after the jump.

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Monday, February 6, 2012

Jerked: Heron Valley Jerk Chicken

Posted by Mike Sula on Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 4:11 PM

Heron Valleys whole jerk chicken
Though dorm rooms and frat houses across the land will fumigate today in honor of Bob Marley's 67th birthday, I'm going to suggest an alternate ritual application of smoke: visit Roseland's Heron Valley Jerk Chicken.*

Jerk shacks come and go on the south side, but Heron Valley's been infusing allspice and chile-rubbed chicken, catfish, and shrimp with a righteous smoke for about four years on a stretch of 103rd Street temptingly close to Old Fashioned Donuts. Inside, a bulletproof barrier protects a chuffing barrel smoker that produces a tender, juicy bird, hacked and heaped in clamshell with a couple slices of dense hard-dough bread to mop the tangy jerk sauce—for a mere $10.

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Friday, February 3, 2012

One Bite: Burmese pickled tea salad

Posted by Mike Sula on Fri, Feb 3, 2012 at 1:24 PM

Junta-backed pickled tea salad
Unlike citizens of the great states of Virginia, Indiana, and California, we in Chicago have no place to eat Burmese food, which is a shame for all sorts of reasons, only one being we have no access to the wonderful tea salad known as laphet thote.

Until now.

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Thursday, February 2, 2012

This week's food and drink events

Posted by Daniel Gerzina on Thu, Feb 2, 2012 at 12:48 PM

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Thursday2
Yes, it’s Groundhog Day, and Jerry's Wicker Park is celebrating by offering wild boar sloppy joes with fig vinegar barbecue sauce and screening Bill Murray’s classic Groundhog Day all day and night. The sandwich will stay on the menu for the following week, but Groundhog Day apparently ends for the movie. 10 AM-2 AM, Jerry’s Wicker Park, 1938 W. Division, 773-235-1006, free.

More events after the jump.

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This week in Food & Drink

Posted by Kate Schmidt on Thu, Feb 2, 2012 at 10:30 AM

Quail with spiced beluga lentils at Goosefoot

Mike Sula reviews Goosefoot, the new BYO fine-dining spot from Les Nomades vet Chris Nugent, where he's currently offering an eight-course tasting menu for $90, with a 12-course option in the works. It's all delicious, he says, from "stomach-priming" first courses like chestnut soup topped with truffle foam to quail on a bed of curried lentils he "could eat a whole bowl of." But ultimately he finds it "too fastidious for its own good," and urges Nugent to let his hair down a la Schwa's Michael Carlson or Phillip Foss of El Ideas, whose similarly ambitious and technically brilliant menus are leavened by informality, music, and free-flowing booze.

In the listings are more restaurants in Lincoln Square, among them Sula's much-beloved Nhu Lan Bakery and Jimmy's Pizza Cafe, where you can follow up your New York-style slice with beignets.

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Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Gene and Georgetti: the movie

Posted by Tony Adler on Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 2:18 PM

My favorite steak house, Gene & Georgetti, turned 70 in 2011, but the platinum jubilee seems to be leaking into 2012. Last Sunday G&G took over the Park West on Armitage for a big party, the centerpiece of which was the premiere of a movie about the restaurant, made by G&G family scion Michelle Durpetti.

There were antipasti and moviehouse candies available before the showing, slider-size sandwiches after (provided—rather sweetly, I thought—by friendly competitor Phil Stefani, who appears in the movie talking about how much he learned from G&G). At the buffet station, a guy carved slices of prosciutto that dropped onto a platter alongside crumbles of good aged cheese. When they weren't offering boxes of pop corn and bags of Swedish Fish or Twizzlers, servers brought drinks from the open bar.

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"Only an asshole doesn't like Brussels sprouts"

Posted by Mike Sula on Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 1:47 PM

black cod with sprouts and tempura clams, Acadia
"The only thing I can think of is that there are a few noisy assholes who don't like them and complain about them publicly, and through these outbursts they have the whole world convinced their opinion matters. They're the climate-change deniers of food."—Steve Albini, mariobatalivoice

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