
Maison, a new restaurant from Custom House's Sue Kim-Drohomyrecky and Peter Drohomyrecky, opens tonight. The French-tinged menu comprises seafood, snacks like gougeres and house-marinated olives, charcuterie plates, and a generous list of entrees; the executive chef is Perry Hendrix. 333 E. Benton Pl., 312-241-1540.

Little less spicy, not particularly greasy is the MO at Edgewater's Den Den, the city's only Eritrean restaurant, which replaced Las Islas Marias late last year. That's not to say it isn't worth checking out: at the very least it provides a socially acceptable opportunity to eat spaghetti with your hands.

More food shockers . . .


Amtrak is an unrelenting mess. And the Utah pie incident—I only made it through one bite—was like every other similar experience I'd had until then: gloppy filling, crust out of a box. I’d never had good roadside pie.
Until now.

That hasn't stopped chef Bradford Phillips of Troquet—the newish "neighborhood French bar" from the folks who brought you LM—from putting one on the menu. As it goes, that's about the only non-Frenchy thing to eat at this Ravenswood corner bar, the home of Wolcott's until owners Stephan and Nicole Outrequin Quaisser took it over in March. That wasn't long before they reopened the restaurant in the Essex Hotel (the ill-fated, erstwhile Tribute) after luring Phillips away from the Pump Room to command both. In scope and ambition, both menus are way scaled back from anything he was doing there, or, for that matter, anything he did at LM when he was the Outrequin Quaissers' opening chef.

Bridgeview's Jordanian-Palestinian Al Bawadi Grill is widely, and rightly, praised for its hardwood lump charcoal-grilled meats, sometimes at the expense of other worthy things on its big menu, namely the makdous, stuffed oil-cured baby eggplants. Traditionally these are put up in the fall pickling season, known as mouneh in Lebanon, and eaten months later. At Al Bawadi they're stuffed with crushed walnuts, red pepper, and garlic and served sectioned on the plate, tangy, spicy, and quite meaty themselves, and an ideal pickly counterpoint to the kebabs.

Zina Murray announced Logan Square Kitchen's impending demise with an angry rant against the city's "department of dream killers," and then another, giving no hint of her plans just four days earlier.
More food news bites, good and bad:

But the guy couldn't catch a break. Upon delivery they were rejected by Jamaican slaves. One taste and you can see why. There's no more aggressively boring fruit than this. Once cooked it has a texture and flavor somewhere between boiled potato and dense white bread.