Cooking

Monday, January 14, 2013

Collared: Hamachi kama from Mitsuwa

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.14.13 at 05:23 PM

Yellowtail collar
This is so simple I almost hesitate to write about it. A fish only has two collars, and if more people started broiling them at home it could drive up the price of this unlovely but delicious and economical cut. Hamachi, yellowtail, or Japanese amberjack, has a particularly meaty collar that should never be discarded. Occasionally they're offered grilled at Arami or Yusho (where it's only trumped by Fish Face), but they're always available at Mitsuwa, where they're currently priced at $10.99 a pound.

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Monday, January 7, 2013

On the future of deli containers

Posted by Mike Sula on 01.07.13 at 05:11 PM

duck, turkey, dashi
If you do enough home cooking and still order a significant amount of takeout then you've probably discovered the flawed utility of the circular deli takeout container, those opaque eight-, 16-, and 32-ounce plastic receptacles that your egg-drop soup, Massaman curry, or vegetable jalfrezi arrives in. I hope you don't consign these to the landfill when you've finished because they're pretty good for storing other leftovers, or new ingredients, or even non-food-related odds and ends. I use them most often for stock—my freezer is always crammed with liquid meat. And I go through a lot of them for this purpose. Inevitably I yank open the freezer door and one or more of them tumble to the floor, sending plastic and stock shrapnel flying at toe level.

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Monday, December 24, 2012

Braunschweiger ballin'

Posted by Mike Sula on 12.24.12 at 02:00 PM

braunschweiger ballin'
This thing used to horrify me when it appeared every year at Christmas lunch, but over time I've come to love it. I imagine it arose out of the same hoary mind-set as the nut-coated cheese ball. There are a million recipes for it, incorporating nonsense as varied as olives, hot sauce, garlic salt, nuts, green onions, pickle relish, mayo, and ketchup. But as you'll see after the jump, my mom's simple six-ingredient recipe is the best:

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Monday, December 10, 2012

How to find a home-cooked meal in Berlin, Sao Paulo, or Tel Aviv

Posted by Mike Sula on 12.10.12 at 01:15 PM

Meal Sharing
  • Meal Sharing
Alienation is the occasional side effect of foreign travel—but unlike, say, intestinal upset, you can't always just pop a Cipro and move on. The liberation of being away and unencumbered by the familiar is at constant odds with the sense that you don't belong and you really know nothing. Eating is one of the most direct ways to get to know a city, but you can eat all the street food you want and it's not going to help you understand it more than a home-cooked meal would.

To that end there's Meal Sharing, a new social-networking site founded by Chicagoan Jay Savsani that aims to hook travelers up with hosts for home-cooked meals. Savsani, a web designer, was inspired by a meal he ate in Siem Reap, Cambodia:

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Monday, December 3, 2012

Secret ingredient: sake lees

Posted by Mike Sula on 12.03.12 at 04:00 PM

sake lees
I don't know if Mitsuwa has always carried sake lees, or sakekasu, but they do now, and perhaps it's more than just coincidence that winter is the height of sake brewing season, and therefore just the right time for this by-product of the process to show up. Why should you care? Well, these are solids left over after the sake is separated from the fermented rice. Fermented rice? You mean koji? That's right. The same stuff chefs are using to amp the umami of everything from burgers to spaghetti carbonara to baked goods.

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Monday, November 26, 2012

Easy kimchi: kkakdugi

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.26.12 at 04:00 PM

kkakdugi
About four years ago I had my hat handed to me by a reader for implying that kimchi—specifically the common Napa cabbage variety—is cheap and easy to make. That's wrong, of course, particularly with that kind, because you have to make sure the salt, ginger, garlic, red pepper, salted shrimp, and whatever else you're throwing in there is uniformly distributed among the leaves of the tightly packed baekchu if you expect it to be properly seasoned and fermented. Pain in the 항문.

I should have known better. Each year around this time my mother in law bequeaths me a year's supply of her homemade, straight-from-the-garden stuff (which invariably asphyxiates whatever unsuspecting TSA drone has the misfortune of inspecting the suspicious-looking amorphous mass in my bag on the day I fly home). The baekchu kimchi she makes in huge quantities requires a multiday process, usually involving her pals, and I'm never around to witness it or otherwise take part. Besides, "Not even Korean man make kimchi," she'll joke.

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Monday, November 19, 2012

Deep-fried, panko-rolled, cheese-stuffed stuffing balls

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.19.12 at 04:00 PM

Just like the Pilgrims made
You deep-fry your turkey, don't you? No? Stop reading. When it comes to Thanksgiving turkey I am an insufferable didact. Though the methods du jour—steaming/roasting and braising/roasting—look tempting, once you make the $50 investment in a turkey fryer there's no going back.

But what about the stuffing, you say? A deep fryer sitting in the driveway all weekend filled with perfectly good peanut oil lends itself to all sorts of inspiration. It's true, you can't deep-fry a stuffed turkey, but by now it's conventional wisdom that when you roast a stuffed turkey you're courting evil, so you should be preparing that stuffing outside the bird anyway.

Deep-fried stuffing is the answer.

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Friday, November 16, 2012

Toward a more perfect union, pumpkin pie division

Posted by Sam Worley on 11.16.12 at 12:48 PM

Theres a pie in here somewhere . . .
  • Rene Schwietzke
  • There's a pie in here somewhere . . .
Thanksgiving cooks are such insufferable didacts: prepare this turkey, they'll tell you—heritage, brined—and these sides (brussels sprouts, creamed), cooked this way (deep-frying also permissible). Recently on Buzzfeed Sam Sifton, whose Thanksgiving cookbook somebody should surely be thinking about buying for me for Christmas, though at that point it will either come one month late or 11 months early, laid down six inviolable holiday rules—for instance, "The only trouble that should ever present itself when the subject comes to mashed potatoes and Thanksgiving is should someone demand that garlic or basil be added to the mix. Your response to this heresy should be brief and unequivocal: NO." Forgive the abrasive tone and watch Sifton's video—it's wonderful. But then consider: Are you tired of being bossed around? We all have different tastes, different gustatory preferences, different dietary needs. Do you seek a more fluid—a more forgiving—approach to American's tastiest holiday?

Great, then find your own fucking website. Because I am about to tell you how to make the world's finest pumpkin pie.

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Monday, November 12, 2012

Cooking with pasta from Rockford: Valentino's fusilli gigante

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.12.12 at 04:00 PM

Valentino fusilli gigante
This summer I was all set to write a love letter to a new small-batch pasta brand coming out of Rockford called Valentino Pasta. Its namesake, Jeff Valentino, had given me a bag of his creste di gallo, an unusual coxcomb shape, and though it had taken me several weeks to get around to making it, once I did I was floored at how tasty it was. Super chewy, with a ruddy, sauce-bonding texture, it had a nutty, almost sourdough-like flavor I'm not sure I'd ever come across before. I immediately rang up Valentino, but by then it was too late. After just a few short months of production his $7,000 imported pasta maker had broken down, and he'd been unable to find anyone to service it. Production was halted indefinitely and his stock dwindled to nothing.

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Monday, November 5, 2012

Maricel E. Presilla's sprawling Gran Cocina Latina unites the cuisines of Latin America

Posted by Mike Sula on 11.05.12 at 04:00 PM

A steaming pile of. . . asado negro
Last week I said I'd get a bit more into Maricel E. Presilla's sprawling Gran Cocina Latina while my tepache was fizzing. It's a huge, fascinating, and improbable-seeming encyclopedia; an attempt to unify all the cuisines of Latin America—from Mexico, across the Caribbean, and down through Central and South America. In this day of increasing awareness and pride in regional food this seems untethered from reality—Borgesian, even. But Presilla, a Hoboken restaurateur of Cuban descent, was first a food historian, and her extensive study and travel led her to conclude something that's actually pretty obvious: all of these cuisines are profoundly influenced by Spanish and Portuguese colonialism. She writes:

As I began to piece together a connected understanding of what I was tasting I was amazed at the centrality of what were essentially medieval cooking techniques brought from the Iberian peninsula that got a new lease on life in Latin America.

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