Booze

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Totally good: Vander Mill Totally Roasted Cider

Posted by Julia Thiel on 01.16.13 at 12:37 PM

Champagne glasses work for cider too.
To celebrate a friend's move to a new apartment last week, I opened a bottle of Vander Mill Totally Roasted Cider that I'd picked up at the Beer Temple. I realize that champagne would have been more traditional, but I can't afford real champagne, and cheap sparkling wines tend to all taste more or less the same to me—fine, but nothing to get too excited about. Cider, on the other hand, is something I like a lot as long as it's not too sweet. Besides, this bottle was on the pricey side—$13.99 for a 25-ounce bottle—which in my book makes it officially appropriate for a celebratory drink.

And while it's a little expensive, it's also completely worth it. My friend was wrapped up in conversation when she took a sip, but interrupted herself to look at the bottle, exclaiming, "Whoa, this is really good!" (I had the same reaction, except I didn't say it out loud.)

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Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Now open: Avondale's Beer Temple

Posted by Julia Thiel on 01.09.13 at 02:54 PM

It's not every day that I walk into a beer store to find them sampling out Dark Lord. Actually, it's not every day that I walk into a beer store, period, but with the recent explosion of craft beer in Chicago, the Beer Temple is actually the second beer store to open in just a few months (the first, Bottles and Cans, is located at 4109 N. Lincoln). I first noticed the sign at California and Belmont a few weeks ago, and stopped in to take a look on Monday, the second day they were open. Apparently Sunday was really the day to be there, because I noticed an empty bottle of Westvleteren XII on the counter, which owner Chris Quinn said he'd been offering samples of on opening day (the Dark Lord had been out then too, but that lasted until the next day).

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Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Beers now available in Chicago: Fireman's, Kona, Jenlain, Pietra

Posted by Julia Thiel on 01.02.13 at 02:27 PM

From French farm country to downtown Chicago
  • Julia Thiel
  • From French farm country to downtown Chicago
Expanding almost as rapidly as local craft-beer production is the selection of craft beers made elsewhere that are now available here. Among the latest entries to the market: Fireman's Brew, an LA-based brewery founded by two firefighters, and Kona Brewing Company, from Hawaii's Big Island. French breweries Pietra and Jenlain aren't new to the market, but they're both celebrating winning medals at the World Beer Championships, and their publicist sent a couple samples my way.

The Fireman's Brew website has one of the cheesiest Flash intros I've seen in a while: an animated background featuring a blazing fire with the slogan "Extinguish your thirst" printed on it. Naturally, it comes complete with a crackling fire soundtrack. The names are pretty corny too—Blonde, Redhead, and Brunette. Still, the company does donate some of its proceeds to the National Fallen Firefighters Foundation (though they don't specify what percent).

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Wednesday, December 12, 2012

The cider renaissance: Virtue Cider launches Lapinette

Posted by Julia Thiel on 12.12.12 at 03:00 PM

This may look wet, but its dry
OK, maybe it's not exactly a renaissance. Lapinette is the second offering from Virtue, Chicago's first local cider-only outfit. Virtue's English-style cider, called RedStreak, hit local taps in April; the Mitten, aged in 12-year Heaven Hill bourbon barrels, is expected around New Year's. Former Goose Island brewmaster Greg Hall, the founder of the operation, has studied cider in England and France, and while he brews with local apples, he's clearly influenced by drier European styles.

Lapinette, whose coming-out party took place last night at Lula Cafe, is a Norman-style cider fermented with saison yeast and aged in French oak wine barrels. Slightly cloudy (in the style of the rough French ciders made hundreds of years ago, it's unfiltered), it's bone-dry, lacking both the tartness and sweetness of RedStreak—which itself is much less sweet than most American ciders. "Fruity" might seem like a glaringly obvious way to describe a cider, but where RedStreak is very fruity (in a lush, juicy kind of way), Lapinette is not. It's woody and tannic, so it dries out your mouth a bit, and while it does have fruit flavors—pear and bitter grapefruit in addition to the apple—they're restrained. And, though I realize this description may not sound particularly positive, the cider is really good, perfect for pairing with food. It may, however, be a shock to palates that are accustomed to Woodchuck. It's on tap at bars around Chicago, but won't be released in bottles for a year or so (RedStreak is also available only on tap).

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Wednesday, December 5, 2012

One Sip: the Big O ginger liqueur

Posted by Julia Thiel on 12.05.12 at 04:03 PM

Tagline: Nothing fake about it
Liqueurs aren't usually my thing—too sweet and syrupy for my taste. They're fine mixed with other stuff, but on their own they can be cloying. But I recently got a sample of the Big O, a small-batch liqueur made near Kansas City, and since I'm a big fan of ginger, I gave it a try. It's restrained in every way: not too sweet, not too alcoholic, not too spicy. There's plenty of ginger flavor, but it's very smooth, without much of the kick characteristic of ginger. There's a hint of citrus, maybe a little clove, but overall it's fairly straightforwardly ginger.

As a mixer, the liqueur could maybe do with a little more kick (though I haven't had a chance to experiment with it yet), but Kathy Kuper and Bill Foster, the couple who created it, wanted something they could drink straight. They began experimenting with the idea about ten years ago after finding out that the limoncello they were drinking at a restaurant was made by the waiter's grandparents. "That was the first time we discovered you can actually make booze," Kuper says. They went home and tried to make limoncello. "It was just awful," she says. They tried again. It was still awful.

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Monday, December 3, 2012

Beer and Metal: Founders Brewing's Bolt Cutter

Posted by Philip Montoro on 12.03.12 at 02:00 PM

PICT4118.jpg
To celebrate their 15th year in business, the folks at Founders Brewing in Grand Rapids, Michigan, have released a powerful barrel-aged barleywine called Bolt Cutter. "Dry-hopped with a mountain of Cascade hops," says the brewery, "it's balanced by a malty sweetness and spicy complexity, resulting from barrel aging some of it in bourbon barrels, some in maple syrup-bourbon barrels and some not at all." This barreling scheme is similar to the one Founders used for their excellent 2009 Nemesis release, though that was a wheat wine. Bolt Cutter has been resting in bottles and kegs since July—a fine idea for a beer that's 15 percent alcohol, which might otherwise be harsh and hot. It came out last month.

Founders president Mike Stevens explains that Bolt Cutter got its name from the brewery's run-in with a bank in its early days. "We were defaulting on our loan," he writes on the Founders blog. "The bank called and threatened to chain our doors shut if we didn't come up with the money that we owed them. We had seven days to come up with half a million dollars.”

Vice president Dave Engbers bought a pair of bolt cutters, in case the bank followed through on its threat. “We were determined to keep our doors open and to keep brewing beer, no matter what it took," he writes. "Luckily, we never had to use them." He still keeps the bolt cutter in his office.

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Wednesday, November 28, 2012

One Sip: Perennial Artisan Ales

Posted by Julia Thiel on 11.28.12 at 04:00 PM

Beers and from whence they came (theoretically)
St. Louis, my hometown and the home of Perennial Artisan Ales, is a Budweiser town through and through—even now that Anheuser-Busch is owned by InBev. (Coincidentally, I just started reading Bitter Brew: The Rise and Fall of Anheuser-Busch and America's Kings of Beer, which is fascinating so far.) True, new microbreweries are springing up there almost as fast as they are in Chicago, and Schlafly has been making craft beer for more than 20 years. It's not hard to find good beer; it's just that the bar in Terminal B of Lambert Airport is called the Budweiser Stadium Club. And if you drive down to the Perennial brewpub, all of the corner bars you pass on the way sport neon signs that say "Budweiser," "Bud Lite," or "Anheuser-Busch"—never "Miller" or "Fat Tire." There's at least one that, in addition to the neon sign, has a faded Budweiser ad painted on one wall.

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Wednesday, November 21, 2012

One Sip: Lagunitas Brown Shugga

Posted by Julia Thiel on 11.21.12 at 04:00 PM

Brown Shugga, a seasonal brew from Lagunitas, was created in 1997 as the result of an attempt to rescue a failed batch of Olde GnarlyWine Ale by adding "boatloads of brown sugar"—or so the story goes, anyway. It was a hit and they've made it every year since, until last year. Lagunitas, then in the process of building a new brew house, realized that they didn't have the facilities to brew both their regular beers and Brown Shugga (which requires more time to make than the others). In its place they released an excellent IPA that they named Lagunitas Sucks Holiday Ale, with an apology for not brewing Brown Shugga printed on every bottle: "There is no joy in our hearts and the best we can hope for is a quick and merciful end. F*@& us. This totally blows. Whatever. We freaking munch moldy donkey butt and we just want it all to be over."

Lagunitas Sucks was so popular that the brewery now plans to brew it year-round—and more importantly, Brown Shugga is back this year. It's less sweet than you'd expect, smooth and biscuity-tasting with a subtle brown sugar flavor and piney hops that kick in with a bitterness that intensifies for two or three seconds before starting to fade. When the beer is cold the hop bitterness is the dominant flavor, but it mellows out as it warms up, letting the malts come through more.

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Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Beer Hoptacular, round three

Posted by Julia Thiel on 11.14.12 at 04:00 PM

beer_hoptacular.JPG
It can take a while for big events to hit their stride (Chicago Gourmet, for example). In its first year Beer Hoptacular was less than spectacular, its beer offerings fine but generally unimpressive. The second year, the festival added a bunch of breweries to the lineup, but the Aragon Ballroom was so packed with people that it was hard to get to any of them. This year the event—actually three separate sessions, each featuring 60-odd breweries and more than 140 beers—moved to the Riverfront Theater, a 20,000-square-foot temperature-controlled tent tucked between the Tribune Freedom Center and the river. It's not actually much bigger than the Aragon, but arranging the booths around the outer edge of the tent left the middle open for attendees to move around and relieved congestion. It was still a little crowded, but at least it was possible to get to all the booths, and most didn't have much of a line.

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Wednesday, November 7, 2012

One Sip: beers recently released in Chicago

Posted by Julia Thiel on 11.07.12 at 04:00 PM

Henry Weinhards beers
  • Henry Weinhard's beers
A note about the headline: a more accurate description would be "beers released in the last couple months, which might count as recent in the minds of certain procrastinators, but possibly not to everyone." But my editor tends to disapprove of headlines that are longer than a David Foster Wallace footnote, so we'll just go with "recent."

I tried Omission, a gluten-free beer from Widmer Brothers in Oregon, a couple weeks ago at their release party at Fatpour Tap Works. I'd done a little research (i.e., googling) in advance, and most of what I found praised the brew for actually tasting like beer. Not being gluten intolerant myself, I haven't tried other gluten-free beers, but I can confirm that the two Omission offerings do, in fact, taste like beer. Not particularly exciting ones—the lager is light and inoffensive; the pale ale is a little hoppier but also fairly mild—but definitely beer that I wouldn't object to drinking if it were handed to me at a party. Omission seems to be one of the only gluten-free beers brewed with barley (if not the only one); the gluten is then removed through a supersecret "proprietary process" until it's well under 20 parts per million. It's $10.99 a six-pack at Binny's, which I'd probably pay happily if I were gluten intolerant—since I'm not, though, I want a little more flavor for that price.

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