Beer and Metal

Monday, January 21, 2013

Kosmyk Charlie's Y2K Catastrophe Ale from Central Waters: It's a mouthful

Posted by Philip Montoro on 01.21.13 at 02:00 PM

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I have a slightly ambivalent relationship* with barleywines. Done right, they're one of my favorite kinds of beer in the wintertime, but because of their high alcohol content—usually pushing double digits—and the concomitant need to heap a whole bunch of crap into the mash tun when brewing them, they sometimes turn out hot and harsh, with a mess of big flavors clanging discordantly.

Time usually mellows a beer that's strong enough to cellar, so I was encouraged by Central Waters' claim that their Y2K barleywine—more properly called Kosmyk Charlie's Y2K Catastrophe Ale and "originally designed for the Y2K survival kit," whatever that means—is aged for a year before it reaches the drinking public.

Plus I already had a few good reasons to trust Central Waters: not just La Petite Mort, the bourbon-barreled weizenbock they brew with Local Option, but also their excellent bourbon-barrel stout. Kosmyk Charlie's isn't aged in bourbon barrels except in special cases (and this isn't one of those), but it's clearly a much prized adult beverage: even at four bucks for a 12-ounce bottle, it was sold out at both Binny's outlets I visited this past weekend. Speaking of Local Option, though, they'll have it on tap at their Al Capone-themed beer event this Friday, January 25. (You should also try the De Dolle Stille Nacht 2011, the Emelisse Triple IPA, and the Local Option Kentucky Common aged in Templeton Rye barrels. At least. And don't try to drive.)

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Monday, January 14, 2013

On tap: Solemn Oath's Ravaged by Vikings

Posted by Philip Montoro on 01.14.13 at 02:00 PM

Jourdon Gulletts artwork for Ravaged by Vikings
  • Jourdon Gullett's artwork for Ravaged by Vikings
So far my beer reviews have involved me nursing a bottle of something special in my apartment, on account of it's easier that way to take notes (and serviceable pictures). But on Saturday I decided to go to Acre for lunch and see if they had anything on tap I could review—even though that meant I'd be obligated to bring a notepad and my janky old camera into a bar, since I don't own a smartphone, a laptop, or anything in between.

Luckily I found a douple IPA called Ravaged by Vikings, from a newish Naperville brewery called Solemn Oath that distributes its beer exclusively on tap. It's the big brother of Kidnapped by Vikings, one of the first Solemn Oath releases upon its opening in May 2012. Ravaged by Vikings has been around since late fall, assuming that the dates of its online reviews at Beer Advocate can be trusted.

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Monday, January 7, 2013

End of an era: Stone 12.12.12 Vertical Epic

Posted by Philip Montoro on 01.07.13 at 02:00 PM

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Last month Stone Brewing of Escondido, California, released the 11th and final beer in its Vertical Epic series, the 12.12.12 ale (the numbers refer to December 12, 2012). The series began more than ten years ago with a beer called 02.02.02, making it nearly as long-running as the Bell's Batch series. Subsequent entries have been released one year, one month, and one day apart (03.03.03, 04.04.04, and so forth), and each has been a unique one-off. All have been Belgian inspired, bottle conditioned, and strong enough to benefit from cellaring, and Stone has encouraged drinkers to hang on to bottles for "vertical" tastings throughout the years—"vertical" in this case means involving multiple subsequent releases of beer from the same brewery (in the world of wine, "horizontal" tastings include many wines from a single year, often from the same vineyard or the same territory).

Stone came to Chicago in April 2010, and because I don't have especially formidable beer-trading chops, I've tried only the Vertical Epic ales released since then. The 10.10.10 is a Belgian-style golden tripel brewed with dried chamomile flowers, triticale (a hybrid of wheat and rye), and just-pressed muscat, gewürztraminer, and sauvignon blanc grapes. The 11.11.11 is Belgian-style amber ale brewed with cinnamon and Anaheim chiles from New Mexico’s Hatch Valley.

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Monday, December 17, 2012

Westvleteren XII: The greatest beer in the world?

Posted by Philip Montoro on 12.17.12 at 02:00 PM

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Even if you're not a beer nerd, you might have heard from NPR that the Trappist monks of Belgium's Saint Sixtus Abbey imported their famous Westvleteren XII quadrupel to the States for the first time last week. On December 12, 2012, a total of 15,000 gift packs (priced at an eye-watering $84.99 for six bottles and two tasting glasses) went on sale in 21 states. Four stores in Illinois received the beer, including one in Chicago—the Binny's location in Lincoln Park, which sold out by half past noon.

To get an idea how hyped Westvleteren XII is, all you have to do is consult the Internet's two most popular beer-rating sites, Beer Advocate and RateBeer. By aggregating their millions of user ratings, they've compiled lists of the best-loved beers in the world; on the former, it's in second place, and the latter has it squarely in first. Westvleteren XII has been first at Beer Advocate for much of the six years or so I've been consulting the site, but it's currently displaced by Russian River's Pliny the Younger.

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Monday, December 10, 2012

Beer and Metal: Spiteful Brewing's G.F.Y. Stout

Posted by Philip Montoro on 12.10.12 at 02:00 PM

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I first encountered Ravenswood's Spiteful Brewing, founded in January 2010 by childhood friends Brad Shaffer and Jason Klein, last month at the Festival of Wood and Barrel Aged Beer, where they made their public debut with a version of their G.F.Y. Stout that they'd aged (by the taste of it rather briefly) in a freshly dumped bourbon barrel from Evanston's Few Spirits. According to a post at Girls Like Beer Too, the Spiteful guys operate in a space that's just 480 square feet—an argument for the use of the term "nanobrewery."

You might already recognize the Spiteful logo, because Shaffer worked as a bike messenger for much of the past two years and plastered the brewery's stickers all over town during his rounds. But the G.F.Y. Stout, their first commercially available beer, didn't arrive on store shelves till December 5—it's now available at a bunch of Binny's locations, Fischman Liquors, and Capones Liquor. I paid nine bucks for mine. Follow Spiteful on Twitter for updates on releases and locations.

Shaffer and Klein also have a Christmas ale in the works, for which they juiced four pounds of ginger by hand. I don't generally care much for holiday beers, unless they're Belgian—I don't get why the Great Lakes Christmas Ale has a cult following, for instance—but that detail about the ginger has piqued my curiosity. Powdered ginger just makes me think of cookies, but the fresh stuff can have a real bite.

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Monday, December 3, 2012

Beer and Metal: Founders Brewing's Bolt Cutter

Posted by Philip Montoro on 12.03.12 at 02:00 PM

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To celebrate their 15th year in business, the folks at Founders Brewing in Grand Rapids, Michigan, have released a powerful barrel-aged barleywine called Bolt Cutter. "Dry-hopped with a mountain of Cascade hops," says the brewery, "it's balanced by a malty sweetness and spicy complexity, resulting from barrel aging some of it in bourbon barrels, some in maple syrup-bourbon barrels and some not at all." This barreling scheme is similar to the one Founders used for their excellent 2009 Nemesis release, though that was a wheat wine. Bolt Cutter has been resting in bottles and kegs since July—a fine idea for a beer that's 15 percent alcohol, which might otherwise be harsh and hot. It came out last month.

Founders president Mike Stevens explains that Bolt Cutter got its name from the brewery's run-in with a bank in its early days. "We were defaulting on our loan," he writes on the Founders blog. "The bank called and threatened to chain our doors shut if we didn't come up with the money that we owed them. We had seven days to come up with half a million dollars.”

Vice president Dave Engbers bought a pair of bolt cutters, in case the bank followed through on its threat. “We were determined to keep our doors open and to keep brewing beer, no matter what it took," he writes. "Luckily, we never had to use them." He still keeps the bolt cutter in his office.

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Monday, November 26, 2012

Beer and Metal: Pipeworks Brewing's Citra Ninja

Posted by Philip Montoro on 11.26.12 at 02:00 PM

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I admit, it's a bit soon to be reviewing another beer from Pipeworks Brewing—their Abduction Imperial Stout occupied this space just six weeks ago. But at FOBAB I chatted briefly with Pipeworks' Beejay Oslon, and he told me that Citra Ninja, which the brewery had just released, is his favorite creation so far. That was enough to get my attention, since I'd picked the beer upon which it's based—the double IPA Ninja vs. Unicorn—for the Reader's 2012 Best of Chicago issue in June.

Besides, Pipeworks has shipped at least 26 varieties of beer since starting production in late February. On account of I need decent pictures and plenty of notes for these posts, I'm effectively restricted to beers in bottles (as opposed to on tap only) so I can review them at home, and I've got to find one worth talking about pretty much every week. An extravagant rate of innovation like that provides a lot of low-hanging fruit.

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Monday, November 19, 2012

Beer and Metal: The tenth annual Festival of Wood and Barrel Aged Beer

Posted by Philip Montoro on 11.19.12 at 02:00 PM

Complimentary tasting glass, contents unknown
  • Complimentary tasting glass, contents unknown
For 2012 the Festival of Wood and Barrel Aged Beer (the proofreader in me always wants to style it "Festival of Wood- and Barrel-Aged Beer") moved from the Chicago Journeymen Plumbers Union hall on Washington to the fifth-floor Skyline Lounge of the Bridgeport Art Center at 35th and Racine. Colloquially referred to as FOBAB (pronounced "faux bab"), the festival presents dozens of the strangest, strongest, most fanciful beers brewed anywhere, all aged in barrels or in contact with wood.

The barrels might be new raw or toasted oak or have previously held bourbon, rye whiskey, rum, cognac, port or other wines, and a few beers are aged on cedar. This year you could taste several adult beverages that had luxuriated in Pappy Van Winkle bourbon barrels, or in barrels that once held 50-year-old French cognac. Many spent that aging time in the company of fruits or spices: I tried a Flanders red ale aged with blueberries in wine barrels, an IPA aged on cedar with peaches, a strong Belgian dark ale aged in bourbon barrels with raisins, cinnamon, and dried chiles, a milk stout aged in sweet Madeira barrels with cherries, and a Belgian-style IPA aged in a cabernet barrel with passionfruit and cacao nibs, to name just a few.

The Illinois Craft Brewers Guild presents FOBAB, this year held on Saturday, November 17, with one session from 1-5 PM and another from 6-10 PM. I attended the swiftly and thoroughly sold-out event thanks to the indulgence of ICBG president Pete Crowley (who also runs Haymarket Pub & Brewery) and executive director Justin Maynard. Last year I went with my coworker Julia Thiel, which made it easier to try more beers without incapacitating myself, but this time, flying solo, I managed a mere 26, among them nine medal winners—and that's counting a couple I previewed at a kickoff party at Haymarket on Friday evening. All the winners (and the rest of my review) are after the jump.

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Monday, November 12, 2012

Beer and Metal: Two Brothers Brewing's Heavier Handed

Posted by Philip Montoro on 11.12.12 at 02:00 PM

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Two Brothers Brewing, based in Warrenville, Illinois, released its yearly batch of Heavier Handed IPA late last month, so I'm reviewing it for this Monday's Beer and Metal post. Heavier Handed, as the name implies, is a juiced-up version of the Heavy Handed IPA, and both beers are what tend to get referred to as "harvest ales" or "wet hop ales," meaning they're brewed with hops that are just picked and still green, not dried as usual.

Heavier Handed contains 8.1 percent alcohol, compared to 6.7 percent for its little brother, and it's aged in what Two Brothers calls French oak foudres. A foudre, if the Internet is to be believed, is a great stonking barrel or vat of unspecified size, historically used in parts of France for aging beer or (more commonly) wine. The word apparently also means "lightning" in French, so go figure.

Perhaps counterintuitively, harvest ales can't compete with the intense hop flavors found in especially aggressive beers made with the dried variety. I'll make a semieducated guess and compare the use of fresh hops in brewing to the substitution of fresh herbs for dried in cooking—in my experience it can take a fistful of green leaves to do the job of a tablespoon of dried. Maybe using fresh hops requires a volume so much larger than normal that you reach a practical upper limit sooner. I'm sure any actual brewers reading could clear this up in the comments.

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Monday, November 5, 2012

Beer and Metal: Perennial's Heart of Gold wheat wine

Posted by Philip Montoro on 11.05.12 at 02:00 PM

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Saint Louis brewery Perennial was founded in September 2011 by former Chicagoan Phil Wymore, who'd previously managed the barrel program at Goose Island and then served as head brewer at Half Acre for a spell. His wife, Emily, and her father, Russ Bryant, help run the business, and on the brewing side Wymore has taken on Cory King, who used to manage the International Tap House in the Soulard neighborhood of Saint Louis.

Perennial got my attention this summer with Fantastic Voyage (a strong milk stout made with coconut) and an excellent peach Berliner weisse. So in late October I picked up a bottle of the Heart of Gold wheat wine when the 2012 batch (the second overall and first with this label) hit stores. Heart of Gold won a silver medal in "Other Strong Beer" at last month's Great American Beer Festival in Denver. There were 55 entries in that category, one of 84 at the festival; the gold went to Boulevard's Reverb Imperial Pilsner, in a good showing for Missouri.

Wheat wine is a newish style, having arisen in America (probably California) at some point in the past three or four decades. (Home brewers are almost certainly responsible, which makes it difficult to be precise.) It's about as strong as the comparatively ancient barleywine style—Heart of Gold is 10 percent alcohol, at the low end of the typical range—but wheat malt accounts for more than half of its grain bill.

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