They're just a tiny bit airier than a typical high-density gelato, but what I love about them is that they aren't over-the-top sweet, and they don't bludgeon you with their flavors, like, say, Black Dog Gelato does. That's to say that these are ice creams better eaten on their own, rather than as accents to composed restaurant desserts.
And that's right. I said tomatoes, which result in a subtly flavored, only mildly sweet gelato that finishes with just a breath of fruity meatiness that's not at all incompatible with an ice cream. The flavors will rotate, so I can't guarantee Graziano will be scooping out the tomato all the time, but the pistachio, which is so far the top seller—and the most intensely flavored—will be in regular rotation.
J.P. Graziano, 901 W. Randolph, 312-666-4587