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Thursday, December 6, 2012

At Logan Square's Reno, artisan bagels, wood-fired pizzas, and other things worth carrying cash for

Posted By on 12.06.12 at 04:21 PM

The Beetza at Reno

They may still be running out of bagels by lunchtime, but the staff at Logan Square's new Reno is top-notch, many of them carrying over from neighboring Telegraph Wine Bar.

Executive chef Johnny Anderes (whose Key Ingredient for us last year was in fact ash) is working with the wood-burning oven he inherited from former occupant Ciao Napoli to produce artisan bagels, available beginning at 7 AM weekdays, 9 AM on weekends. In addition to the Stumptown Coffee, there are also pastries and breakfast sandwiches, with more sandwiches at lunch.

At night there are pizzas, which include specialties like the self-explanatory Beetza and meat pies featuring pepperoni from the Paulina Market or pork belly carnitas. Anderes, with the help of chef de cuisine Elliot Green, is also offering seasonal pastas, for example, cavatelli with acorn squash, pappardelle with Gorgonzola and greens, and fusilli bucatini with lamb neck ragu, grilled peppers, eggplant, and fiore sardo (aka Sardinian pecorino).

Telegraph sommelier Jeremy Quinn has assembled a wine list as aptly described as it is affordable, with wines by the glass between $6 and $8 and bottles all under $40 (and even cheaper if taken to go). In charge of the whiskey-fortified spirits list and craft beers (plus the obligatory cheap PBR) is Hot Chocolate veteran Luke LeFiles, best known to us here as the creator of a kimchi Bloody Mary, the Malort Drinker's Breakfast.

Pastry chef Katie Wyer, a Trotter's vet also at Telegraph, uses the wood-burning oven for her apple crisp with cinnamon ice cream, and has come up with other homey combos—carrot cake, a brownie sundae, an ice cream float with sarsaparilla or cold-brewed Stumptown coffee. As if there wasn't enough to tempt you already.

Pastry chef Katie Wyers handiwork

Reno is cash only, but the sandwiches are all under $10, pizzas and pastas under $15.

Reno, 2607 N. Milwaukee, 773-697-4234, renochicago.com

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