Thursday, July 26, 2012

Graham Elliot Bistro: the brand goes on, and more in this week's Food & Drink

Posted By on 07.26.12 at 11:10 AM

Spiritualized pork + watermelon + okra
  • Spiritualized "pork + watermelon + okra"

In this week's Food & Drink Mike Sula reviews Graham Elliot Bistro, GEB's latest project to be named after himself—he has a brand to uphold, after all. The name of the guy in charge of the cooking is Jacob Saben, and he's been given the task of presenting a straightforward menu of appetizers, pastas, and entrees supposedly incorporating no more than three ingredients each (nonsense). Despite this, dishes like "pork + watermelon + okra" are for the most part balanced and well executed, sometimes even buoyant, though the occasional misfires and hit-or-miss desserts and $12 cocktails may stick in your craw even if the narcissism and rock-and-roll gimcracks don't.

In Key Ingredient, Sprout sous chef Jeffrey Sills transforms chicken gizzards into "chewy little chicken nuggets" by confiting and panfrying them, topping them with a poached egg and serving them alongside roasted morels and Thumbelina carrots, borage, and a carrot-mustard puree. Next up is pastry chef Elissa Narow of Perennial Virant and Vie, working with huitlacoche.

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