Mike Sula reviews BLT American Bistro, Laurent Tourondel's River North restaurant that by trying to offer something for everyone—sushi, pizza, steaks, burgers, ribs, meatballs with polenta, chicken diablo, Thai steak salad, fish-and-chips, a blooming onion—winds up offering everything for no one, except perhaps for the ditherers, killjoys "whose dietary pickiness is such that they'll only be satisfied at the one place that makes everyone else miserable." It's not cheap, either: that burger? $18.
In our Cocktail Challenge, Justin Anderson, assigned muddled caviar by Bar DeVille's Brad Bolt, came up with an Asian-inspired Bloody Mary made with Suntory Hakushu 12-year-old peated whiskey, a spicy Asian tomato mix, the muddled caviar, and a garnish of wasabi creme fraiche. Next up is Naha's Steve Carrow, author of the new Potation Handbook, working with the cheese packet from a box of Kraft macaroni and cheese.